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PostPosted: Thu Apr 04, 2013 11:51 am 
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Joined: Fri Jun 04, 2010 10:02 pm
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First name: Michael
Last Name: Giltzow
City: Boise
State: Idaho
Zip/Postal Code: 83709
Country: usa
Focus: Build
Status: Semi-pro
Hi Fred

I agree with what you are saying and I am happy with my new temperature controller. It is so much better than the method I was using. and I made it myself - I like to do that when I can. Just wanted to let some of the people that have been PMing me know, that you need to do a little more than just turn it on, set it and forget it. Thanks again for all your help - Mike

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 04, 2013 1:46 pm 
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Joined: Mon Feb 04, 2013 7:49 pm
Posts: 181
Location: Graton, California
First name: Mike
Last Name: Smith
City: Graton
State: CA
Zip/Postal Code: 95444
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Professional
LarryH wrote:
Looks really good Mike. Where did you get those rocker switches? Ebay?

I just got the linked PID from Ebay and am not that thrilled with the Centigrade readout. I've contacted the seller to see if I can exchange it even though the conversion is really easy I'd rather not bother. Oh did I mention I have absolutely no clue how to wire this thing up? I'll start building a box and see where that leads me. Who gets the first PM? [:Y:]


I did buy the rocker switches off ebay. They were pretty cheap. The PID unit i bought will read out in C or F. I have never tested the accuracy of temperature readout. I would think it could have something to do with the type of probe your using. I'm using just the little wire ones like they have on the LMI unit.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2013 5:23 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 18, 2011 6:30 am
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First name: Arroyas
Last Name: guillaume
City: saint desirat
Zip/Postal Code: 07340
Country: france
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Hello,

Last week i found a kit on ebay with the Pid controller + the thermocouple an da solid state relay of 25a.

Unfortunatly, i can't go to this obejct anymore because of restrictions from ebay for my country.

I found the same kit but with a 40a SSr. Will it work for our purpose ?

thank you very much and sory for my bad english.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2013 5:32 pm 
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Location: Windsor Ontario Canada
First name: Fred
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Zip/Postal Code: N8T2C6
Country: Canada
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The higher amp SSR is not a problem, and could even be a benefit if you decide to run 2 blankets as some builders chose to do.

Fred

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2013 5:33 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 18, 2011 6:30 am
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First name: Arroyas
Last Name: guillaume
City: saint desirat
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Country: france
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Thank you very much!

Does i need 2 pid digital controller for running 2 blankets at the same time or there is enough "slot" to connect the 2 blankets with one "kit" ? (sorry i'm very bad at elecronics!)


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2013 5:41 pm 
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One controller will work, the thermocouple will see the temperature of the whole wood, steel slat and blanket stack.

Fred

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2013 6:02 pm 
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First name: Arroyas
Last Name: guillaume
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Country: france
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Thank you so much for your advices! I've just ordered the kit.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 02, 2013 4:48 am 
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Walnut
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Joined: Wed May 18, 2011 6:30 am
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First name: Arroyas
Last Name: guillaume
City: saint desirat
Zip/Postal Code: 07340
Country: france
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Hello,

I've received all the necessary to make a heat blanket controlled device.
However, i need help stuck with the wiring of all the components because i'm afraid doing something wrong!

in my mind:

1-2 to the electrical power
4-5 to the input (4-3 but i'm not sure maybe 4-5 ?) of the SSR (and my blanket connected in the 1-2 of the SSR)
9-10 to the thermocouple (but i don't known which is the - or the + in the red and blue).

Image

Thank you very much!


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 02, 2013 7:27 am 
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Location: Windsor Ontario Canada
First name: Fred
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Zip/Postal Code: N8T2C6
Country: Canada
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
That looks right, as for + - on the Thermocouple if it is reversed the readings will be strange. Hook up power and T-couple to the unit and check that it reads room temperature. If the temperature is wrong reverse. If that much is good hook the SSR input to the output terminals of the controller and the output of the SSR will be in series with the hot side (black wire) of the power to the blanket.

If you have any questions feel free to contact me with a PM I have helped a few other get up and running.

Fred

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 02, 2013 7:51 am 
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And get a different Thermo-Couple now. That large threaded end is intended for a completely different purpose than a heat blanket. It's too thick and it will not register the temp properly, or nearly quick enough causing the blanket to over heat.

Get something like this with the very small wires that fit snuggly between layers in a blanket sandwich. Even the ones with the long thinner probes are too thick to convey the heat readings fast enough to the PID.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-1m-K-Type-T ... 257fcdc718

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 02, 2013 8:15 am 
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First name: Fred
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Country: Canada
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Quote:
And get a different Thermo-Couple now


Actually cutting the wires from the T-couple and twisting them together results in the same thing as the one linked to. I did this for my 1st 10 or so bends before getting one like this
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/K-Type-Thermocouple-Probe-f-Digital-Thermometer-Stainless-Steel-Sensor-K-752-F-/310676340965?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4855c0c0e5

Fred

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 02, 2013 9:17 am 
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True Fred, as long as it's a 'K' type I believe. The one that came with my kit, can't remember maybe an 'N' type? just stopped working when the wires were twisted together. Just a heads up from my real world experience using a kit with the wrong thermo couple type.

And couldn't have gotten it working without your help - another thanks. [clap]

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 02, 2013 11:22 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 24, 2006 12:42 pm
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First name: Fred
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Zip/Postal Code: N8T2C6
Country: Canada
Focus: Build
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Quote:
maybe an 'N' type? just stopped working when the wires were twisted together


Your was a RTD type which creates a resistance change with temperature changes, either J or K type will work with twisted wires. We used to do this and crimp the joint into a lug to mount t-couples to the sheet metal paint oven walls.

Fred

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