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PostPosted: Mon Feb 04, 2013 11:42 am 
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First name: Blake
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Can I spray a wash coat of shellac tether than brush on?

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 04, 2013 2:31 pm 
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me too, for my taste less danger for bleeding out of some woods into purflings etc. I am using this one...like it with a 0,8mm thing...

http://www.sata.com/index.php?id=minijet


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 04, 2013 2:55 pm 
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Always.
And what Herr said!
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 04, 2013 7:22 pm 
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Yes, you can spray. For some circumstances, such as sealing a binding channel, I brush. But I spray tops, etc., for an overall sealer/protection coat. Thin it to 1-lb. cut, as previously advised.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 04, 2013 7:26 pm 
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I got tired of leveling the overlaps so I now spray and that works sooooooooooooooo much better.
Michael


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 05, 2013 10:10 am 
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So why a 1lb cut? I spray a 2lb cut with no problems. Do you just want to put down less material or ??? Just curious.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 05, 2013 1:58 pm 
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I use a thicker mix also.
More shellac= less alcohol = less raised grain.

Mc

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 05, 2013 11:19 pm 
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Why the thinner mix?

For me, the answer is simple: I get a smoother coat with a thinner mix. It's almost self-leveling, as long as you don't do anything crazy. I haven't had as good success with shooting a 2-lb cut. Runs, sags, orange peel, and nightmares were all over the place. I am no spraying expert, but I couldn't get rid of the orange peel until I started thinking thin.

Blake, my favorite method for shooting shellac is to mix Zinsser Universal Sanding Sealer (a 2-lb cut) with equal parts acetone and methyl hydrate. If I had ready access to ethanol instead of the methanol, I would use that.

This mix dries super fast, and I have no problems with rosewood right next to maple, and other such (possibly) unruly combinations.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2013 9:33 am 
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Thanks, I was wondering. My 2# cut is made from blonde shellac flakes dissolved in ethanol (everclear). Don't know if that makes a difference but I have not experienced any of the problems you've noted. idunno

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2013 9:54 am 
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I spray 2 coats of the Zinsser seal coat right as it comes from the can and have no problems with it.

Fred

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2013 4:13 pm 
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Fred,

What size tip, and what PSI at the gun are you using? That may be all I need to change.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2013 6:18 pm 
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Don't know about Fred but I'm using a Walcom EGO hvlp with 1.2mm tip running at 29psi.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2013 6:41 pm 
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Lincoln Goertzen wrote:
Fred,

What size tip, and what PSI at the gun are you using? That may be all I need to change.


2" Ox hair at 1 pass per second. No clean up required.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 07, 2013 12:14 am 
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I use the Devilbiss HVLP starting line touch up gun with the stock needle size, 1 mm. The air is set at 25psi an the gun.

Fred

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 07, 2013 4:36 am 
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Spray..................If I brush something always seems to go wrong........!! When spraying Mr. Murphy goes for lunch break.
Tom

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 07, 2013 8:01 am 
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Michael.N. wrote:

2" Ox hair at 1 pass per second. No clean up required.


You don't clean the brush?

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 07, 2013 9:04 am 
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Why clean the brush? Just stick the bristle part in a plastic bag with a few drops of alcohol, tied with an elastic band. Keeps it sweet for a couple of days. Quick and fuss free. Pretty much the same with cloth and Danish oil/Tru-Oil - put the cloth in a screw top jar with a few drops of Turps. You can then use the same piece of cloth, less waste with the Tru-Oil continually being absorbed by the cloth.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 07, 2013 10:10 pm 
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Michael.N. wrote:
Why clean the brush? Just stick the bristle part in a plastic bag with a few drops of alcohol, tied with an elastic band. Keeps it sweet for a couple of days. Quick and fuss free. Pretty much the same with cloth and Danish oil/Tru-Oil - put the cloth in a screw top jar with a few drops of Turps. You can then use the same piece of cloth, less waste with the Tru-Oil continually being absorbed by the cloth.


I can see that. I wrap my good paint brushes with plastic when I take a break while house painting although I always clean them at the end of the day.

Todd Stock wrote:
Penetration.


That makes sense.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 08, 2013 1:34 am 
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I hate spraying shellac.. I did it for a restoration project that had shellac finish and it doesn't spray nearly as nice as lacquer, since the alcohol dries out before it makes it onto the wood. Also it is a nightmare to clean, since shellac doesn't dissolve quickly like lacquer. Brushing is probably a better idea...

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 08, 2013 5:43 am 
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There's no real need to clean a brush regularly used for Shellac unless it has become contaminated or you need to switch colour. Storing the brush in a plastic bag simply means that you don't have to wait around for the bristles to soften in the Shellac itself.
The overlaps are only a problem if they are 'heavy'. Very shallow overlaps are easy to rub out. Given that we are referring to a wash coat you shouldn't be getting obvious overlaps anyway. Probably down to technique or the shellac not being dilute enough. You can pre cool the Shellac in the fridge and/or add some retarder if you have trouble brushing. Light coloured inlays need to be sealed prior to using any brushed Shellac. I simply go round with a cloth loaded Shellac as in the Milburn tutorial.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 08, 2013 3:48 pm 
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Tai Fu wrote:
I hate spraying shellac.. I did it for a restoration project that had shellac finish and it doesn't spray nearly as nice as lacquer, since the alcohol dries out before it makes it onto the wood. Also it is a nightmare to clean, since shellac doesn't dissolve quickly like lacquer. Brushing is probably a better idea...


First time I sprayed shellac I had the same problem. Turns out I did not have the gun adjusted properly. Maybe try turning down the air pressure or increasing the material feed.

I use the 3M PPS cup system for my spraygun now and cleanup is simple and very fast.

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