Official Luthiers Forum!

Owned and operated by Lance Kragenbrink
It is currently Sat Aug 16, 2025 7:07 pm


All times are UTC - 5 hours


Forum rules


Be nice, no cussin and enjoy!




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 8 posts ] 
Author Message
 Post subject: Fretboard Preparation
PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2012 2:30 pm 
Offline
Cocobolo
Cocobolo
User avatar

Joined: Thu Aug 13, 2009 4:32 pm
Posts: 480
First name: John
Last Name: Charnock
Country: UK
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
I have worked from a kit previously that had a fretboard ready slotted and cut to size.

I am about to make my first fretboard from a rosewood blank following Cumpiano's method in the book.

Is there anything I should look out for, any tips etc

My first bridge I have to cross is dealing with a neck blank that refuses to flatten out, it has a slight bow in it across the length of about 1.5mm, I am assuming planing it is not going to make the problem go away

J


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 8:08 pm 
Offline
Mahogany
Mahogany

Joined: Thu Jun 02, 2011 8:07 pm
Posts: 47
First name: Stephen
Last Name: Williams
City: Leesburg
State: Virginia
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Go slow. Measure twice. Cut once.

I just did my first using Cumpiano's method, and it came out fine, in the end. I did have to fill and recut a slot, thus the advice above.

As far as the neck blank that won't go flat, it seems to me that you should be able to plane it out. The trick is the shim the blank so that it doesn't flatten out when you plane it. You have to make sure you preserve the bow, as you work it. Again, go slow and check your progress often with a straight edge.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2012 1:44 am 
Offline
Cocobolo
Cocobolo
User avatar

Joined: Thu Aug 13, 2009 4:32 pm
Posts: 480
First name: John
Last Name: Charnock
Country: UK
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
StephenW wrote:
Go slow. Measure twice. Cut once.

I just did my first using Cumpiano's method, and it came out fine, in the end. I did have to fill and recut a slot, thus the advice above.

As far as the neck blank that won't go flat, it seems to me that you should be able to plane it out. The trick is the shim the blank so that it doesn't flatten out when you plane it. You have to make sure you preserve the bow, as you work it. Again, go slow and check your progress often with a straight edge.



Thanks, I don't get the last bit about shimming. The book says use double sided tape to fix it ti the bench for planing. I have not tried it but I think this will take the bow out.

Are you saying the the bow is always present and therefore work with it?

John


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2012 1:54 am 
Offline
Koa
Koa

Joined: Thu Sep 10, 2009 4:01 pm
Posts: 1887
Location: UK
That won't take the bow out. With tape you will be probably forcing the board flat.
First you need to get one side of the board flat. You can do that by either shimming underneath with veneer or by deliberately planing it concave (shorter Plane) or convex (longer plane taking off more towards the ends). Once you have that one side flat then the other side is easy.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2012 10:16 am 
Offline
Cocobolo
Cocobolo
User avatar

Joined: Thu Aug 13, 2009 4:32 pm
Posts: 480
First name: John
Last Name: Charnock
Country: UK
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Michael.N. wrote:
That won't take the bow out. With tape you will be probably forcing the board flat.
First you need to get one side of the board flat. You can do that by either shimming underneath with veneer or by deliberately planing it concave (shorter Plane) or convex (longer plane taking off more towards the ends). Once you have that one side flat then the other side is easy.


Hi can you describe the shimming as I can't visualize it


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2012 10:55 am 
Offline
Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Tue May 13, 2008 10:44 am
Posts: 6262
Location: Virginia
segovia wrote:
Michael.N. wrote:
That won't take the bow out. With tape you will be probably forcing the board flat.
First you need to get one side of the board flat. You can do that by either shimming underneath with veneer or by deliberately planing it concave (shorter Plane) or convex (longer plane taking off more towards the ends). Once you have that one side flat then the other side is easy.


Hi can you describe the shimming as I can't visualize it


What they are saying is to place shims under the board where it is not flush with your bench top, ie where the light shines through. So that when you plane the board you don't just push it flat. I would first plane off the ends on the concave side so that you have one flat side then flip it over and plane out the hump. I would also suggest that the hump side is the side you want to glue the fret board to.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2012 11:02 am 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member
User avatar

Joined: Sun Jun 10, 2012 10:04 am
Posts: 773
First name: Peter
Last Name: Fenske
City: Leeds
State: Yorkshire
Country: Uk
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Image

_________________
"I am always doing that which I cannot do, in order that I may learn how to do it."
Pablo Picasso

https://www.facebook.com/FenskeGuitars


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2012 3:01 pm 
Offline
Cocobolo
Cocobolo
User avatar

Joined: Thu Aug 13, 2009 4:32 pm
Posts: 480
First name: John
Last Name: Charnock
Country: UK
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
PeterF wrote:
Image


Great thanks I'll try it

Joh


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 8 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 5 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: ptourin and 11 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group
phpBB customization services by 2by2host.com