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So I am at the binding stage of the 3rd guitar, and for the first time, want to try mitering the end wedge purfling with the binding purfling. I have used Titebond or white glue for bindings in the past, but want plenty of open time to do this one. So I had planned to use fish glue. But I have also seen that some builders dry-fit everything and then wick CA glue in. The latter appeals to me because it gives unlimited time to get everything right. I am wondering about getting the binding tape off (I suppose any residue just scrapes off when you scrape the bindings). I'm also concerned about staining the spruce top....will a coat of shellac in the channels be sure to prevent that?
I welcome any thoughts or tips about doing the mitering, and your preference for glue-up of this kind of binding scheme.
Thanks, Beth

Beth,

If you want the best of both worlds, tack just the mitered corners with CA, then glue the rest of the binding and purfling with your glue of choice. Also, I route my binding channels completely, then add the wedge with purfling, then cut to size. I find it easier than other methods, but that's just me.
It is annoying to have to scrape off the tape/ CA goop, but you are leveling the binding anyway, so it's not that bad. Hope that helps.

Tony

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http://www.CostaGuitars.com
PMoMC

I think a video would be appropriate.....any takers? <smile>

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Formerly known as Adaboy.......

If you have any white wood in the mitred binding/purfling, don't use CA. It gives the effect of a dark glueline on the mitre, no matter how tight the joint. Titebond seems to disappear the best.

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Trevor Gore, Luthier. Australian hand made acoustic guitars, classical guitars; custom guitar design and build; guitar design instruction.

http://www.goreguitars.com.au

John Bogdanovich recommends leaving the actual miter without glue at all. He said it hides the line better than having glue in the joint. There is plenty of glue all around the line anyway.

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Waddy

Photobucket Build Album Library

Sound Clips of most of my guitars

I also get the miters perfect, hold witn clear packing tape, and tack down with thin CA. Do the rest with LMI white or Tightbond for wood or LMI FCA for ivoroid etc. Brown StewMac tape there. Shellac on the top.
I've only used fiber bwb miters. Trevor's advice on light colored wood purfling with CA is appreciated.

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

Trevor's advice is indeed good, no CA glue on light colored woods, or you risk getting a black line at the miter. On a related note, when I use celluloid bindings, I "weld" the miters shut by gluing them up dry, and wick acetone into the joint. Duco or certain other solvent based glues will also also do this, but I find I get the cleanest results with straight acetone. This is especially important if you plan to dye the instrument before sealing it (as in, color the bare wood), as the dyes will seep into any open joint. So even if the miter looked fine in the white, unless the parts are indeed melted together, you may get a telltale line there after the colors are scraped scraped off the bindings. The acetone trick will not work unless the fit is very good to begin with, BTW.

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Rian Gitar og Mandolin

I've used Titebond, CA, and Fish glue. I like the fish glue best for binding. Titebond doesn't leave me a comfortable open time, CA makes a mess for me, and fish is just so easy to use, good open time and cleans up nicely.

Work carefully, and reference all of your work from the tail.

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Expectation is the source of all misery; comparison the thief of joy.
http://redrivercanoe.ca/

Great advise! Thanks to all who responded. Today's the day, at least for the top binding!

can someone explain mitered purfling to me ?

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Rian Gitar og Mandolin

I get it now

Thanks

J