Official Luthiers Forum!

Well, I've searched the archives and also the tutorial section and can't find anything on making a jig to slot the saddle in a bridge. I know it's here somewhere. Could anyone help?

Or show photos of what you use for this process. I'm think I'm going to use a PC 310 and a 3/32" carbide downcut bit. I have a jig in mind, but would like to see how ya'll do it.

Thanks for the help

Hutch

_________________
"After forty-nine years of violin building, I have decided that the search for a varnish is similar to the fox hunt. The fun is in the hunt."
Jack Batts Maker and Repairer of Fine Violins

Hutch buddy, I posted this same question just last year. You can find the discussion here

After that, this is the jig I made.





The small block where the bridge goes is just there so I don't loose the wedge.

Hope this helps.

_________________
My Facebook Guitar Page

"There's really no wrong way, as long as the results are what's desired." Charles Fox

"We have to constantly remind ourselves what we're doing....No Luthier is putting a man on the moon!" Harry Fleishman

"Generosity is always different in the eye of the person who didn't receive anything, but who wanted some." Waddy Thomson

Here's mine with the bridge in it.

Mine's mostly for redoing saddle slots on the guitar, but works fine with a new bridge dblsticktaped to a surface, too. The router is a Bosch Colt w/clear subbase; part of the metal base has been cut away, since I took these photos, to see the work better

The second photo is the "target plate", set for 1/4" & 1/8" bits. I use endmills, recently got a 3/32"
one that I like; I bushed it up to 1/4" with telescoping brass hobby tubing, slit so that it will compress.

_________________
https://soundcloud.com/jeffreylsuits/he ... -runnin-13

Here's my saddle mill in use.



For new builds, I cut slots with my milling machine.

_________________
- Louis Freilicher

Oh No! Not another learning experience!

Louis, how do you line that sucker up? I'm curious on the 'cut after install' method and your mill looks very cool.

_________________
My Facebook Guitar Page

"There's really no wrong way, as long as the results are what's desired." Charles Fox

"We have to constantly remind ourselves what we're doing....No Luthier is putting a man on the moon!" Harry Fleishman

"Generosity is always different in the eye of the person who didn't receive anything, but who wanted some." Waddy Thomson

Mine's in the tutorial section, Pinless Bridge...
But here's a pic in case you only have dial up.

My old jig used to be up on the jig and fixture page but I see that page doesn't seem to work any longer.

_________________
Tickle your guitar daily, and it'll tickle you back.

Rod, thanks for pointing me in the right direction in the Search for the thread.

And thanks to everyone for posting these photos. This gives me more to work with.

John How, I really do miss the "Tutorial Section". Wish there was some way to get them working again.

You guys are a real time saver. THANK YOU!

_________________
"After forty-nine years of violin building, I have decided that the search for a varnish is similar to the fox hunt. The fun is in the hunt."
Jack Batts Maker and Repairer of Fine Violins

Is this the section you're talking about or am I missing something.
http://www.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=10117

_________________
I didn't mean to say it, but I meant what I said.
http://www.brackettinstruments.com/

Here's a jig John How made that I borrowed from Lance Kragenbrink at the ASIA symposium in MD. This was built with the PC 7310 for the laminate trimmer

Just to note: You can save yourself the cost of dilling bushings by using a plunge router with a collar bushings.

Rod,

I line the mill up by eye. After marking the saddle mid point and ends of the slot, I loosely clamp the mill to the guitar and tap it in. It sounds more difficult that it is really. You can just make out my marks in this after shot.



I really like this method for replacement bridges where duplicating the bridge outline, pin holes and saddle slot can be a case of too many variables at once.



Louis

_________________
- Louis Freilicher

Oh No! Not another learning experience!

Finally got a chance to upload a few pics of mine. Note the combination of angles of the table the bridge sits on, to give the compensation angle and a 10 deg back tilt to the saddle. The small bar clamps on the front are just added insurance that the top part won't move while routing.

_________________
Todd Rose
Ithaca, NY

https://www.dreamingrosesecobnb.com/todds-art-music

https://www.facebook.com/ToddRoseGuitars/

Nice pictures Todd.

Could you give some measurements on the slanted board that gives the angle for the slot?

I had something like this in mind but just can't get my head wrapped around how to make it.

Thanks,
Hutch

_________________
"After forty-nine years of violin building, I have decided that the search for a varnish is similar to the fox hunt. The fun is in the hunt."
Jack Batts Maker and Repairer of Fine Violins

The table that the bridge sits on is supported by three wedge-shaped pieces of plywood, cut to a 10 deg angle. The front edge of the table, which the fence (that the front edge of the bridge rests against) is glued to, is cut at the compensation angle of the saddle. If I remember right, I used a taper cutting jig on the table saw to make that cut. In cross section, that cut is square, so that the fence is square, vertically, to the surface of the table. The fence has a 10 deg angle cut on its bottom edge, so that it sits flat on the base underneath.

The top part, which the router rides on, can be shifted forward or backward, or set at a slightly different angle if I want to vary the compensation angle. Varying the compensation angle will cause the saddle slot to be slightly deeper at one end than the other, but not by much, and that doesn't really matter anyway.

This jig allows a lot flexibility in the size of the bridge and the position and length (and depth, of course) of the saddle slot. The only thing that is really set in stone is the 10 deg back tilt. The shape of the bridge is also obviously infinitely variable, since the slot is cut while it's still a rectangular chunk of wood.

Have I answered all your questions?

_________________
Todd Rose
Ithaca, NY

https://www.dreamingrosesecobnb.com/todds-art-music

https://www.facebook.com/ToddRoseGuitars/