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 Post subject: Fretboard taper geometry
PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2016 3:24 pm 
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Hi

Just about to put taper on my fretboards which are currently straight

previously I have used the plans I have that show the width at nut and width at 12th fret

The plans are for 25.5" scale but I will be using a shorter 25" scale

Does the taper change at all ?

Also building a 12 string 25" scale is it the same taper but wider?

Thanks


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2016 4:42 pm 
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The geometry does change. The fool-proof way to figure it out is to actually lay it out in a drawing. It takes a little more time, but it also gives you the flexibility to make a fretboard that's exactly the way you want it to be. You're in control, not your plan. Had I drawn my latest fretboard rather than trusting FretFind2D, I woud've gotten it right much faster [headinwall] :D

1. Measure out your scale length from the saddle to nut, then mark the 12th or 14th fret location (whichever you prefer).

2. Draw your nut width at one end, and string spacing at the saddle end.

3. At the nut end, mark how far in from the edge of the fretboard you'd like your 1st and 6th strings. Draw a line connecting those marks to their location on the saddle. Now you have string paths for the 1st and 6th strings.

4. Determine how far in from the fretboard edge you'd like your strings to be at the 12th or 14th fret. Do you want it to be the same as at the nut? A little less? A little more? It's your choice. Make the mark at the 12th or 14th fret.

5. Draw a line from that mark to the edges of the nut. Now you have your taper.



These users thanked the author James Orr for the post (total 3): klooker (Sun Nov 13, 2016 9:59 am) • dzsmith (Sat Nov 12, 2016 7:33 pm) • cablepuller1 (Sat Nov 12, 2016 4:50 pm)
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2016 4:51 pm 
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James Orr wrote:
The geometry does change. The fool-proof way to figure it out is to actually lay it out in a drawing. It takes a little more time, but it also gives you the flexibility to make a fretboard that's exactly the way you want it to be. You're in control, not your plan. Had I drawn my latest fretboard rather than trusting FretFind2D, I woud've gotten it right much faster [headinwall] :D

1. Measure out your scale length from the saddle to nut, then mark the 12th or 14th fret location (whichever you prefer).

2. Draw your nut width at one end, and string spacing at the saddle end.

3. At the nut end, mark how far in from the edge of the fretboard you'd like your 1st and 6th strings. Draw a line connecting those marks to their location on the saddle. Now you have string paths for the 1st and 6th strings.

4. Determine how far in from the fretboard edge you'd like your strings to be at the 12th or 14th fret. Do you want it to be the same as at the nut? A little less? A little more? It's your choice. Make the mark at the 12th or 14th fret.

5. Draw a line from that mark to the edges of the nut. Now you have your taper.

Thanks James great advice



These users thanked the author cablepuller1 for the post: Michael Lloyd (Wed Apr 26, 2017 10:26 am)
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2016 7:31 pm 
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A good rule of thumb is 12th fret width equal to string spacing at the bridge. That gives a little more edge space at the 12th fret than at the nut, which is nice because the strings are most flexible at the middle, and thus more likely to fall off the edge there if you use constant edge space.

If you do like constant edge space, then 14th fret width equal to bridge spacing will usually do it.

But as James says, drawing it out is the most reliable way to get exactly what you want.



These users thanked the author DennisK for the post (total 3): Michael Lloyd (Wed Apr 26, 2017 10:26 am) • cablepuller1 (Sun Nov 13, 2016 4:56 am) • dzsmith (Sat Nov 12, 2016 7:33 pm)
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