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PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2016 9:37 pm 
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Mahogany
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Joined: Tue Dec 02, 2014 8:02 pm
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First name: Jonathan
Last Name: coleman
City: rome
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Country: usa
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Status: Amateur
anyone have any experiences with it?
good or bad?

http://www.titebond.com/product.aspx?id ... 7daa20f8ed


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2016 11:33 pm 
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First name: Chris
Last Name: Pile
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I use it when joining dark woods, or when gluing frets into rosewood or ebony fingerboards. It's amazingly sticky.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2016 8:02 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Fri Dec 14, 2007 3:21 pm
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I use it for gluing in frets, Love it for that. It dries hard and call me nuts but I think that is one of those million little things that have a positive effect on tone. I have also used it for gluing and cleating cracks as it tacks up fast but as opposed to hot gives more time to get things in place.

Internet lore suggests it is not as strong as hot hide although I have not actually seen any testing. I use the hot stuff for building.

Anybody ever built a guitar with Tightbond hide or seen actual data as to how much weaker it is than hot?

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2016 8:11 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Location: Virginia
I have built a guitar with Liquid Hide glue. It's probably 22 years old now. My first classical guitar and it's been to hell and back and is still held together just fine.

The general consensus is to simply not use it and if you must then make sure you get it very fresh. I think I remember reading in some woodworking magazine a study done on various glues including TB LH and it's results were very good. I also have read testimonies of the joints falling apart. I guess that is just what you get with anything on the Internet. It should be easy enough to test yourself.



These users thanked the author jfmckenna for the post: Terence Kennedy (Thu Apr 07, 2016 6:28 pm)
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2016 8:29 am 
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Koa
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Its a protein glue much like "Fish Glue -- LePage's Original" the latter has a much lighter glue line. The Titebond LH is a version of "Old Brown Glue" which actually tested to be stronger than HHG.

http://www.titebond.com/Libraries/News_ ... .sflb.ashx

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Ken Cierp

http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/



These users thanked the author kencierp for the post: Terence Kennedy (Thu Apr 07, 2016 6:28 pm)
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2016 7:22 am 
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Koa
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I checked the website and it said, "...exceptional strength and unique crackling effect on wood."
I have only been building for 10 years or so, but does anyone know what "unique crackling effect on wood." might mean?

Thanks,
Max

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2016 7:30 am 
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Koa
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http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/



These users thanked the author kencierp for the post: mkellyvrod (Fri Apr 08, 2016 9:04 am)
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2016 11:56 am 
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Cocobolo
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Location: Trabuco Canyon, CA
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Terence Kennedy wrote:
Internet lore suggests it is not as strong as hot hide although I have not actually seen any testing. I use the hot stuff for building.

Anybody ever built a guitar with Tightbond hide or seen actual data as to how much weaker it is than hot?


There was a study done in 1990 by U of Delaware/Winterthur Program in Art Conservation.

See: http://www.wag-aic.org/1990/WAG_90_buck.pdf

Here's their conclusion:

Quote:
The results of this testing reinforce the importance of maintaining a controlled environment for the
display and storage of wood objects. The most critical factor in the strength and stability of the 20 liquid
hide glue and 20 hot hide glue joins was the environment.

Based purely on strength characteristics this testing indicates that liquid hide glue is the glue of choice
for repairing a join which will undergo significant stress, such as the structural join of a chair in regular
use. But, more importantly, that decision must also take into consideration the environmental conditions.
Under normal conditions of 50% RH and room temperature liquid hide glue provides the strongest
bond. However, hot hide glue proved to be the more stable of the two glues under extreme conditions
of high heat or high humidity, and thus would be the more desirable choice if fluctuating environmental
conditions are anticipated.

It is also important to consider whether a very strong bond is desirable, especially if it is coupled with
a higher percentage of possible glue failure. In instances where the glued area will not be subjected
to excessive stress, the slightly lower strength, lower percentage wood failure hot hide glue is more
appropriate.



These users thanked the author DanSavage for the post: Terence Kennedy (Fri Apr 08, 2016 3:44 pm)
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2016 3:27 pm 
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First name: Chris
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Quote:
make sure you get it very fresh.


Whenever I buy glue of any kind, I mark the day I bought it on the bottle with a Sharpie. Year old stuff goes in the trash - no matter how much is left.

I like FRESH glue. Fresh glue works.

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These users thanked the author Chris Pile for the post (total 2): Imbler (Fri Apr 08, 2016 6:28 pm) • edstrummer (Fri Apr 08, 2016 3:56 pm)
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2016 3:49 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Very interesting stuff. Now that it seems liquid is just as strong as hot I wonder about hardness. I'll do a few tests.

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These users thanked the author Terence Kennedy for the post: edstrummer (Fri Apr 08, 2016 3:56 pm)
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2016 6:49 pm 
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Koa
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Hey Ken,

Thanks for the video. So the "crackling" effect is now elucidated. Can't wait to try it on my next guitar laughing6-hehe .

Thanks,
Max

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Brighton, Michigan



These users thanked the author MaxBishop for the post: ChuckH (Sun Apr 10, 2016 1:42 pm)
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2016 6:53 pm 
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Koa
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Chris stated that he uses it to join dark colored woods. What about light colored woods? One of the advantages of hot hide glue I've heard about is that it produces a virtually invisible glue line on spruce. True? If so, what about liquid hide glue?

Max

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Max Bishop
Brighton, Michigan


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 10, 2016 11:37 am 
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Koa
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Anyone have an answer to the previous question?

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Max Bishop
Brighton, Michigan


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 10, 2016 12:12 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Fri Aug 19, 2005 4:02 am
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Location: The Woodlands, Texas
First name: Barry
Last Name: Daniels
I had a bad experience with it about 40 years ago. Glued on a fretboard with a fresh bottle of the stuff. The next day the fretboard easily came off the neck and the glue was still wet. Never used it again.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 10, 2016 6:17 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Tue May 01, 2012 12:54 pm
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Location: Trabuco Canyon, CA
First name: Dan
Last Name: Savage
City: Trabuco Canyon
State: CA
Zip/Postal Code: 92679
Country: USA
MaxBishop wrote:
Chris stated that he uses it to join dark colored woods. What about light colored woods? One of the advantages of hot hide glue I've heard about is that it produces a virtually invisible glue line on spruce. True? If so, what about liquid hide glue?

Max


I've used Old Brown Glue for the center joints on the last two torrefied spruce tops and the glue line was invisible. Granted, torrefied spruce is darker than non-torrefied wood, but the OBG worked fine with it. I also used it to glue the braces and again, it worked fine.

I've never tried Titebond liquid hide glue.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2016 2:22 pm 
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Mahogany
Mahogany

Joined: Wed Dec 16, 2015 6:50 pm
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First name: Tyson
Last Name: K
City: Stony plain
State: Ab
Zip/Postal Code: T7Z3A1
Country: Canada
Focus: Repair
Status: Amateur
I used titebond liquid hide glue to repair a broken banjo headstock. It has been almost a year now and it has held up with sting tension and all.


Tyson k


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