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PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2016 10:26 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Does this nut need bleaching or degreasing?
I've had it soaking in 3% Hydrogen Peroxide for 3 days and can't tell any difference.
I bought it as a bleached nut, but after thinning it looked like this.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 15, 2016 7:47 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Where does that nut come from? I processed some moose bone for nuts and saddles. I boiled them for about 2 hours, then I had them soaking in naphtha for over a month and a half, changing the naphtha every 4-5 days in the beginning, and then every week for the last 2-3 weeks.

I remember reading that you don't want them sitting in peroxide for more than 20-30 minutes as this might make it too brittle.

That discoloration might be natural.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 15, 2016 9:53 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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It looks like you overheated the nut during sanding. I don't know if that will bleach out or not.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 15, 2016 11:00 am 
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I had one like that, the bone was just discoloured, only found it during sizing the nut to width,
I changed it for another as it was to replace a white one.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 15, 2016 11:09 am 
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Koa
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We use food grade 35% peroxide -- I think you'll have better luck with this:

http://www.amazon.com/35-Food-Grade-Hyd ... B0050DS18U

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 15, 2016 5:49 pm 
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Hmmm I never thought about it being the result of over heating the bone. I did use a drum sander to take it down close to final size.
Barry, you may be spot on.
thanks guys,
Bill

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 15, 2016 8:16 pm 
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Nah, I have a number that look like that. Came that way. I have used Hydrogen Peroxide, with no issues, to bleach the bone. I don't think the Peroxide is an issue, but Chlorine bleach is. Sometimes, I just find a saddle that matches with dark splotches and just make a mate for the saddle. However, I'm partial to unbleached bone for nuts and saddles.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 16, 2016 8:24 am 
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What Waddy said

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 16, 2016 10:32 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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If you don't believe that you can burn a bone nut, just hold one up against a metal disk sander and take off 1/16" or so of its thickness. I have burnt up several on my Shopsmith's large disk sander. The discoloration occurs in the interior of the bone because the heat has no where to dissipate, unlike the outside edges. This is not a natural discoloration. Please look at the photo again and you can see what I am talking about.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 16, 2016 1:57 pm 
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Barry Daniels wrote:
If you don't believe that you can burn a bone nut, just hold one up against a metal disk sander and take off 1/16" or so of its thickness. I have burnt up several on my Shopsmith's large disk sander. The discoloration occurs in the interior of the bone because the heat has no where to dissipate, unlike the outside edges. This is not a natural discoloration. Please look at the photo again and you can see what I am talking about.


Barry, no argument on whether or not they will burn - they surely will and I've done it too. But I've also seen that gray funky discoloration on nuts where there was no other indication excess heat. I don't know but I thought it was just a normal discoloration of the bone.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 16, 2016 4:57 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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It could be either truthfully. We weren't there when it happened so we can only guess by the photo.



These users thanked the author Barry Daniels for the post: SteveSmith (Wed Mar 16, 2016 7:59 pm)
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 17, 2016 9:05 pm 
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Ya know, I've noticed a lot of "bleached nuts" like that come from LMI. I worried about it when I saw them, and less so after I shaped them. They look great installed. I don't know why LMI does this, I guess I'd prefer bleached to be white through and through. Stew Mac blanks are white all the way. I've heard over-bleaching can lead to brittleness. Again, I will say nuts like yours (ok, no comments) will look fine once shaped and buffed.


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