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In another thread a while back someone posted a pick of a set up for cutting purfling with a knife blade rather than a table saw.

I did look in the achieves to know avail. I'd be grateful if whoever posted it could re post it. Promise to bookmark it this time.

Thanks!

FWIW, I still find it easier to use the fret slotting blade and a feather board on the tablesaw...

Hey Danny, I posted a pic of cutting with a marking gauge, worked well.

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My memory is so good, sometimes I remember things that never happened.

I use a 3 ft starrett st edge , but get inaccurate cuts witha vy sharp knife . The cuts are not straight Now using a 2 sided veneer saw, which seems to work better for me. Saw needs to be vy sharp before using Iuse the rip teeth for long cuts.

Here is a method from Dave Stewart
viewtopic.php?f=10117&t=19132
Ken

I've always found the table saw with my stewmac fret slotting blade works better than slicing for anything over .02" really.

Thanks for the replies. I didn't see the one I was looking for though. I think it was a blade setup from one of the regulars here.
I guess I could use my fretting blade on the t/s. I kinda like to leave that dedicated to the task but I suppose it won't do much wear.
Wonder how Gurian does it?

Danny, is this the one you were looking for?

http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=69874&cat=1,43314,69873

Bob

FWIW, I use my fret cutting blade on the table saw. I've heard stories of shops using their blade to cut slots on thousands of fretboards, so I figured cutting up purfling for my little shop wouldn't be too much wear for the worse.

I use a piece of MDF or plywood against my rip fence to keep the thin (0.023") veneers from sliding into the gap between the fence and table. I made enough 0.100" tall purflings to last me multiple years at the rate I build (or mentally build) in an hour or two. The key to consistency, for me, was using a homemade push-stick. The one I made is about 3" wide by almost 3 feet long. It's faced with sandpaper to help grip the veneer and has a small kerf running down the full length for the blade to pass through. At the trailing end, I glued a small piece of veneer across its width to catch and help push the last few inches of stock through the blade, which I initially had trouble with. Hope that makes sense.

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sweat the small stuff.

One important thing i forgot to mention. Use a zero clearance insert with a piece of purfling glued in as a splitter. I think I originally got this method from Rod True? Maybe?

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sweat the small stuff.

I have one of those, but it doesn't work for me.

Just saw a post on Luthiercom.org of a system using a clamping system with magnets and a Japanese saw that works pretty well.

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Waddy

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Sound Clips of most of my guitars

Thank you all. Still not the one I saw. I should have book marked it.

I've cut lots on the table saw with a Freud blade. I was just looking for a better yield. I guess the fret blade it will be.

Cheers!