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 Post subject: Bubinga - Hard to bend?
PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2015 11:00 am 
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I have this nice B &S set of figured bubinga. I'm thinking about making a florentine cutaway grand auditorium with it. So, I'll need to bend a fairly tight bend in the cutaway section. How is bubinga to bend? Any comments or suggestions on bending bubinga?


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2015 12:22 pm 
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I have only bent one set and it was not highly figured. Bent it by hand on a pipe. I do recall that I had to bend it pretty hot. It is very tough wood.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2015 1:09 pm 
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Like Waddy I have only bent one set. It was hard. I used an iron set at high heat with a damp rag on the iron to keep from scorching the wood. Also hard to sand. That Bubinga is tough stuff.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2015 1:11 pm 
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I've bent only one bubinga set, but it was highly figured so probably at the difficult end of the spectrum. I used Super Soft and bent it on a hot pipe with the temperature turned up high: 6.5 out of 7 on the knob. Spritzed often with water. This set wanted to make facets rather than bend in smooth curves. It took a LOT of pressure with a small wood block in each hand pressing on opposite edges of the facets to get them to bend in the middle. The wood was very strong though and never even started to crack. Didn't scorch either. The sides were thicknessed to 0.078 to 0.080".

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2015 2:21 pm 
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I recently gave up on a set!! I concluded that the sides must be very thin and bent very hot. I would suggest super soft or the equivalent although it didn't seem to make much difference to me.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2015 2:58 pm 
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Hmmm... Sounds like I would be better off using this bubinga set for a non-cutaway. Jay that guitar is beautiful. I have heard of the faceting in figured bubinga that you referenced. Steve - did you mean that the supersoft didn't make much difference? Wow, that is some tough stuff...

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2015 3:00 pm 
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BTW - I just noticed that I broke 1000 posts... I guess I've been around a while.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2015 6:35 pm 
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I've got a guitar going right now that is bubinga, plan is for a Florentine cutaway on it..... I've got super soft II ready to go but from what I've read, Bubinga can be one of the hardest woods to bend.

And ya, sanding it is pretty tough and it doesn't plane well either, the figured stuff that is.


Hmmmmm, Jay's in Bothell, I should get him to come up to help me bend it :D

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2015 8:18 pm 
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Bubinga ain't so bad. Really. SSII. I bent some seriously figured bubinga from Shane, it went super fine. It is a dry wood. So keep it steamy. Take ur time.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2015 11:08 pm 
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Bubinga has lots of variation... I've had some with pomelle figure that bent easily and some with mottled figure that was a real bear but it made a nice guitar. Looks like you have some quartersawn with a lot of reversing grain... I'd bet a very tight bend will be tough to pull off if the sides match the back. Good luck.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2015 11:43 pm 
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I think the lack of wood oil can contribute to bending difficulty. Fine edge between steamy and sopping wet which can lead to cupping. A simple overnight SSII soak is enough to create the proper conditions. I do agree that slow but steady on the bend will give best results. I experienced cupping in one set and backed off of excessive hydration as a workaround. This wood is worth the effort.i would never try to bend it with a simple spritz... It's just too brittle


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 25, 2015 12:03 pm 
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@SteveS >>>did you mean that the supersoft didn't make much difference?

Exactly. I first tried to hand bend without the use of SS and when it did not go well, I tried it with SS. I did not make much more progress. In hindsight I would go thinner and see what happens.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 25, 2015 1:34 pm 
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Rod True wrote:
Hmmmmm, Jay's in Bothell, I should get him to come up to help me bend it :D


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 25, 2015 6:06 pm 
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Cool.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 25, 2015 10:59 pm 
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SS2 in my fox bender and it bent like a dream - this was from Shane's wildly figured stash...
I would not want to try and hand bend that stuff...



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PostPosted: Thu Nov 26, 2015 6:08 pm 
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I both scorched and cracked a set, it can be tricky to bend.
Anyone want a lot of headplates? :D
Next set I used SS II. soaked overnight, and started by hand bending just to get the feel of it before finishing it properly in the bender (first time I used a pipe)
Needs a bit more time and temperature to start to "go" than other woods I've tried since.
Turned out fine. The sides were similar, with sap.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 01, 2015 10:47 pm 
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I'm currently building a guitar with Bubinga sides and back with a cuttaway. I bent the sides with steam. Here's a link I found that really helped me out I still hand to build molds but this steam bending worked really well as opposed to using a steam box.

http://www.core77.com/posts/35838/A-Bet ... lastic-Bag

I had to make some minor adjustments with a bending iron but it turned out pretty well. I'd say for the time spent building the forms to bend the sides and getting a steam machine it would have been just as easy to bend by hand. But if you plan on building more then take the time to build the molds.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 02, 2015 6:46 am 
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I have bent many Bubinga sets. The grain pattern you posted isn't that hard. Water Fall is a pain. .075 thick water on untreated paper . I use a thermometer at the point of bend and a heat blanket
lower bout first at 240-250-F then the upper bout 275 F then the waist
take the heat up to 375 then hold at 250 F for about 15 min and let cool

should bend just fine.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 05, 2015 4:28 pm 
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Thanks John, I was waiting for someone to mention what thickness they used. 0.075" sounds like a reasonable thickness overall. How about for the cutaway section? ...a little thinner?

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 05, 2015 11:15 pm 
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I will say I bent some serious waterfall recently. John's schedule is good. Heat, moisture, SSII, patience. My sides were 0.1" btw. Guess I was lucky. I suppose in hind sight I should have gone a bit thinner. Maybe .09"


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 08, 2016 1:14 pm 
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I have a set of Maroke that started to split on my bending iron. After reading all the praise of Super-Soft2 I ordered a bottle. Now, after reading the instructions, I see I'm supposed to keep it away from heat or open flames. I use a propane bottle to heat my aluminum bending tube. I don't have a heat blanket set up. Any suggestions?

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 08, 2016 1:38 pm 
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yes

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 08, 2016 1:42 pm 
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If you use the SS the way I've been using it, there's no free SS around when it comes time to bend the sides. I spray it on the sides until wet, let it soak in for 10 or 15 minutes, wipe off the excess, and then press the sides between paper towels overnight under a weight. When I take the sides out in the morning, they are pretty much dry. I bend on an electric hot pipe at high temp while spritzing water as needed. I don't see why your propane heated pipe would be a problem.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 08, 2016 2:47 pm 
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I was able to bend the bubinga alright. Thinned the cutaway portion down to about 0.065" and used SSII. I did find the bubinga to be rather chippy...


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 08, 2016 3:24 pm 
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Thank you Jay. That was just the information I was looking for.

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