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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 9:54 am 
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Nice Brian!
It has a "1930's deco" look to me.
I dig it.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 9:57 am 
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[quote="Mike O'Melia"]Dan, that looks like bubinga and bloodwood. Nice.

Thanks Mike.
Coco and Mesquite.
Dan

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 11:08 am 
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Here is mine...


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 7:52 pm 
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dzsmith wrote:
Recently, I've been going for a more straight-string look.
I usually inset the tuner washers below the top veneer.
Dan


I meant the picture associated with this text..


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 8:16 pm 
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I modified the previous one by moving the bottom row up .2", then the second row up .1", giving me 1.5" spacing. Moved away from the ears... seems to address that issue. Good? Maintained space above top row. If anybody wants the skp file, glad to share. Not much to it.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 8:45 pm 
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Mike O'Melia wrote:
I modified the previous one by moving the bottom row up .2", then the second row up .1", giving me 1.5" spacing. Moved away from the ears... seems to address that issue. Good? Maintained space above top row. If anybody wants the skp file, glad to share. Not much to it.

We have a winner [:Y:]



These users thanked the author DennisK for the post: Bryan Bear (Tue Jul 28, 2015 11:11 am)
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 9:45 pm 
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Thank you Dennis. :). Here is one done, centers punched. Mockup looked good.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 9:47 pm 
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I'm gonna post a pic of the inlay pieces and cutout. Andy Birko's precision is amazing.

Mike


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 10:29 pm 
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Mike O'Melia wrote:
I modified the previous one by moving the bottom row up .2", then the second row up .1", giving me 1.5" spacing. Moved away from the ears... seems to address that issue. Good? Maintained space above top row. If anybody wants the skp file, glad to share. Not much to it.


I like it. I think compressing the lower tuner positions relative to the uppers was the way to go. Looks good.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 11:56 pm 
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Thanks Jay. Lots of great help getting this done.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 30, 2015 1:55 pm 
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I've always opted for simple. I find them to be the most elegant.....


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 01, 2015 11:50 pm 
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a few I've remembered to take pictures of


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2015 6:53 am 
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Mike O'Melia wrote:
Dan, that looks like bubinga and bloodwood. Nice.

Btw, has anyone here ever upgraded to Sketchup Pro? Paid the license fee? Seems every time I need it, a new version comes out and I have the new extended grace period. I wouldn't mind paying for it except I hardly ever use it. Then, I suspect I'd end up having to send them $500 for renewals. If that's how it works.

Don't bother. The only real advantage to the pro version is it's layout tools for producing 2D engineering drawings and better file compatibility. If you don't need that, the free version does pretty much everything else. It's free forever btw - it hasn't got a trial period. Also, if you haven't already found them, have a look into the Sketchup plugins. They're open source programs that are free to download that vastly extend Sketchup's capabilities, making it almost on par with Rhino.

RNRoberts - That last headstock is stunning!

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2015 9:37 pm 
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Hmm, I assume u are talking about Sketchup Make? Seems I read somewhere it would not print scale images... My primary use. I will check it out. Thanks for the advice.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2015 9:39 pm 
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How did you do that headstock RNRoberts? That really is a stunner! It looks like waterfall bubinga with sapwood and some kind of epoxy black filler?


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2015 11:17 am 
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Sorry I'm a bit late to the dance but here's mine. I think of the shape as being like a wine glass.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2015 2:16 pm 
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Mike O'Melia wrote:
Hmm, I assume u are talking about Sketchup Make? Seems I read somewhere it would not print scale images... My primary use. I will check it out. Thanks for the advice.

Here you go :)
http://help.sketchup.com/en/article/114462

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2015 6:37 pm 
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Mike,
Amboygnia burl, I'm not sure if it's available any more after cites, but I may be wrong.
Really simple. The burl had a "sapwood" margin on it, so the burl and lighter colored wood is all one piece. Then it was just a matter of tracing it's margin onto a sheet of ebony, cut the outline just like you would pearl for an inlay, glue the two pieces to the peghead, and fill the gaps with ebony dust (use a file, not sandpaper to make the dust) and drip in thin CA a few drops at a time to make a seemless join.

I do stabilize the burl by soaking it with the CA before book matching it because it is very unstable. That also minimizes pores etc for the black dust to get into when sanding the whole thing, keeping the lighter wood looking clean.

The picture below is a different one but shows the how it's done. Like many things that look difficult, it was actually very easy.

The inlay was the "customer's" (my son) business logo, so I stuck mine on the back of the peghead

Randy


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These users thanked the author RNRoberts for the post (total 2): dzsmith (Mon Aug 10, 2015 4:34 pm) • Mike OMelia (Mon Aug 10, 2015 3:47 pm)
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2015 3:49 pm 
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Randy, I will blatantly borrow that idea someday. And give you credit! Thank you.


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