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PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2015 9:42 am 
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2015 10:21 am 
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My standard...


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2015 2:49 pm 
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A recent one...


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2015 3:57 pm 
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Location: Windsor Ontario Canada
First name: Fred
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A couple examples of my pegheads.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2015 9:06 pm 
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City: Chester Springs
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My peg heads all share the same shape. I'm happy with it, although it's a little hard to bind.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2015 5:31 pm 
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Here is what I came up with, measurements for tuner locations came from Michael Payne's OLF SJ plan sheets

Tuners are on 1.35" centers, 1/2" from edge. First tuner (low or high e) is 2.7" from nut. Overall length is 6.7", width at widest is 3.4". Width at nut is 1 11/16"

Thoughts? Input?

Mike


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2015 10:26 pm 
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Mike I've been away from my PC but I'll look more on Monday.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2015 11:13 pm 
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Haans, I've long thought that's the best looking non-F5 mandolin around.

Here's mine. Borrows a bevel from the mandolin/banjo world.

Attachment:
DSC03120 - Version 2.jpg


Attachment:
DSC03099 - Version 2.jpg


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These users thanked the author Pat Foster for the post: Haans (Sun Jul 26, 2015 6:16 am)
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2015 11:23 pm 
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Mike O'Melia wrote:
Here is what I came up with, measurements for tuner locations came from Michael Payne's OLF SJ plan sheets

Tuners are on 1.35" centers, 1/2" from edge. First tuner (low or high e) is 2.7" from nut. Overall length is 6.7", width at widest is 3.4". Width at nut is 1 11/16"

Thoughts? Input?

Mike


Mike, I space my tuner holes 1.5" centers, seems to leave a nice amount of room when using a string winder or just the fingers while tuning.

Everything else seems fine, although for my taste I'd like to see more at the top of the head after the top tuners....

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2015 11:48 pm 
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Mike O'Melia wrote:
Here is what I came up with, measurements for tuner locations came from Michael Payne's OLF SJ plan sheets

Tuners are on 1.35" centers, 1/2" from edge. First tuner (low or high e) is 2.7" from nut. Overall length is 6.7", width at widest is 3.4". Width at nut is 1 11/16"

Thoughts? Input?

Mike

Draw on the tuner keys too. Usually they go above the post centers, which I think will look odd being so close to the end of the headstock. Though there's nothing stopping you from putting them on upside down, either.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2015 9:11 am 
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Dennis, Rod, thanks. My headstock is 6.7". And I don't want to graft on any. I will remember this next time when I spec out the neck. I have plenty of room to bring tuners closer to nut, and add space between then. The OLF SJ peg head is 7.5". And I was first attempting to keep location the same. If I pull them back, then angle to nut will be greater on low and high e. Think that's ok? It's that angle I'm worried about.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2015 9:15 am 
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Here it is on the neck


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2015 12:26 pm 
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Here's mine, it's very similar (not an uncommon shape, it turns out). Length including the nut is 6.5" and the tuner spacing is 1 7/16".
Attachment:
IMG_2223.JPG


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2015 12:54 pm 
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OK, went back and came up with a modification that seems to answer the observations.

1.6" centers (several guitars I have built have used that), pulled first tuners back to 1.8" from nut. Still will have to graft on small wings. But I like the width. Nut model is 1 11/16 x 1/4, inset is 1/16" on each side, then I used even spacing. Tuners are 18:1 gotoh, .2" shaft

Better?


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2015 1:29 pm 
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I agree with Dennis that you should draw in the the tuner shafts and keys to be sure you like how they are positioned/distributed along the edges. I almost screwed up my headstock design by not doing that. Fortunately, I caught it before drilling holes.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2015 3:28 pm 
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Jay, this peghead is identical in width and length to all my other builds. Spacing between tuners is same (in latest version). With the earlier version, I might have drawn them in. But after all of the comments I realized I needed to redo it. So I chose my "usual" setup. What is different is the shape of the peg head. The string to nut alignment tells me I got it right for the topside.

Mike


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2015 4:08 pm 
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Ok,built a mockup with some grovers


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2015 4:24 pm 
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It's probably just me, but for some reason the E tuners look a bit too close to the bottom corners of the headstock. Maybe it's because of the difference in the distance between the E tuners and the bottom corners and the distance between the D and G tuners and the top corners. If it was me, and it's not, I would either shift all the tuners upwards (~1/4"?) or leave the D and G tuners where they are and compress the others upwards toward them to preserve the area at the top for inlay space. It's your design of course. I like the overall shape of the headstock.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2015 4:46 pm 
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Recently, I've been going for a more straight-string look.
I usually inset the tuner washers below the top veneer.
Dan


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2015 4:59 pm 
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That's a cool idea. Do you have a photo of a headstock with the tuners in place?

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2015 5:49 pm 
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Here's a shot of one.
It may add some stability to the tuner pegs, but I think it looks nice, and more less likely to bogger up the finish if the tuner nuts are over tigntened.
Dan


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2015 6:09 pm 
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I try and keep posts away from the string paths, otherwise pretty typical.
I like a lot of the ones out there so I don't feel the need to be absolutely unique.
Ken


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2015 9:53 pm 
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I think it's down to aesthetics now. I'm shaping one head in the shop now. If I decide they should move up a bit, no biggie. I actually had the same thought myself. A 0.2" shift might be all it takes. I really appreciate all of the input.

I'll build a mockup tomorrow evening. Why all the questions? (From me) Well, I've always done a straightforward Martin type head. This kind of shaping is new to me.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2015 11:12 pm 
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Dan, that looks like bubinga and bloodwood. Nice.

Btw, has anyone here ever upgraded to Sketchup Pro? Paid the license fee? Seems every time I need it, a new version comes out and I have the new extended grace period. I wouldn't mind paying for it except I hardly ever use it. Then, I suspect I'd end up having to send them $500 for renewals. If that's how it works.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 7:00 am 
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