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So, I buy these things, way in advance of needing them. My shop is full of good intentions. And, I actually like the design of this jig. But now,I finally have a bunch of FBs to slot. Just ordered a Martin sized template. I can see how it works with the indexing pin and such. But I can't see how I am supposed to keep the FB registered with the template. Stew Mac has no tutorial videos on this. Thoughts?

Mike

I've always just used "trouble" sided tape to hold the FB on the template where I want it.

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

yep, ditto. Double-stick tape will do the trick.

KMG offers slotting templates as well -- the package actually includes a real nice pro level fixture plan.

One of the advancements I made with the KMG design is to have a "pallet/sled" to carry the blank. The blank is actually positively located and screwed to the sled not taped -- It's my opinion that the "tape to the template" aspect has always been a short coming and is not very professional or repeatable. I use the same locators for the CNC machining of the contour radius and our power slotter. Someday when I get a second I plan to convert to vacuum for both processes and eliminate the screws as well.

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Ken Cierp

http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/

A 'cheap' method is to buy a pre slotted board, rip it down the middle and make a slotting jig out of it. I use mine as a marking jig, in other words I don't go to full depth but just deep enough that I can easily locate the saw after I remove the board from the jig. Superglue the end grain of the slots, candle wax the saw and it should be good for some 25 boards and probably many more. When I first had this idea I was concerned that the saw would result in wearing the slots out in double quick time. A few tests proved that it wasn't as big a factor as I thought it would be.

Thats a nice looking fixture you have for sale, (and you have to admit your hustling your gizmo's) but I have slotted twenty some odd fingerboards with double sided tape using Stewed macs template and my homemade fixture with zero issues.

You must not have mis-read the post its about a "good way" of securing the board to the template -- you are correct I do mention KMG but provided no link -- my post is about about a better, professional method using a pallet fixture to think about (we contour and slot hundreds) at any level tape is at best cumbersome -- yes it works. And the fixture posted is not for sale.

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Ken Cierp

http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/

If I were to buy the SM notched template, I'd buy the circular saw blade as well and set up a table saw jig. Dan E. Makes it look so easy!

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wah
Wah-wah-wah-wah
Wah

A table saw set-up is a quantum leap takes about minute and a half for 20 slots. We have a dedicated Delta Shop Master 10" (a real piece of junk) but it works in this single purpose application. The LMII blade has a zillion TPI, it has lasted a long time not sure it can be resharpened. We are going to try the Stew Mac blade next time we need a blade. Seems the LMII blade is a tad off center or out of round you can see a hop as it rotates, could be the crappy saw? But we make it work OK.

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Ken Cierp

http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/

I'd be surprised if double sided carpet tape would result in any kind of problem, professional or not. That did occur to me. But what I dread is removing the board. Maybe that's tge unprofessional part. I'm sure I'll be cussing.

But what I dread is removing the board. Maybe that's tge unprofessional part. I'm sure I'll be cussing.

Exactly! And placing correctly and/or re-positioning as well.

Another option -- if you don't want to modernize and make the pallet so the board can be screwed in place, is to try hot melt glue, it does not take much, releases easily -- it will peel off the FB edges no problem. Seems the low temperature version has a little less grab.

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Ken Cierp

http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/

Mike, Naptha makes removing the board from the template a snap.

Double sided tape works fine with no loss in accuracy. The disadvantage is that it takes a little extra time but that is not an issue for those of us who do one or two boards at a time. In a production environment I would certainly make some kind of hold-down jig like Ken's.

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

[quote="kencierp"]You must not have mis-read the post its about a "good way" of securing the board to the template -- you are correct I do mention KMG but provided no link -- my post is about about a better, professional method using a pallet fixture to think about (we contour and slot hundreds) at any level tape is at best cumbersome -- yes it works. And the fixture posted is not for sale.

Kenneth my good man settle down, were not talking about slotting hundreds of fingerboards, A couple here and there and double sided tape works just fine for the hobby builder, who cares what the pros do, thats why I build in my little one man shop, I believe I can and do a better job

BTW I 've lived in the country all my life and calves are indeed very silly, nothing a full grown man pays any attention too.

I used two side tape for the first hundred or so.

I have the LMII power slotting system and it's the bees knees. In that system, the template rides on top of the fingerboard, which is facedown on the saw. I embedded a 1/8" drill guide bushing at each end of the template. Once you have your template located, drill shallow (1/8") hole in the back of the board (which is facing up) and use the back ends of a pair of drill bits as indexing pins. No muss, no fuss...

Well, all those other options sound nice, but what I have is what I have. So it's tape cause I know how that works and performs. Thanks all

I do the same as Med with tape and pin . Sans the power system so far. And like Kenneth, plan on doing vacuum when I get a second!

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Pat

We only use the pins now...

Clinch -- I am sure that there are many members, maybe most that understand that the poem is not about a bunch of silly calves -- its unfortunate that you don't get it. And too, there are many members maybe most, that really want to know how the pros and others do things -- sharing is what the forum is all about. Since you have only performed this slotting "one way" its impossible for you to make comparisons -- if you are content with your process so be it. But as John Hall points out -- you don't know what you don't know.

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Ken Cierp

http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/

So tape is unprofessional? Is that what's been holding me back?

While I understand your point of showing how you like to do things, I think your marketing hat is on a little too tight. The truth is, using tape or the fancy jig you sell doesn't have any bearing on how professional a craftsman is or the quality of his/her finished product. Again, I agree with you about the benefit of showing alternate methods. I just think the wording was a bit off base.

Ken I get it got it whatever, have fun hustling your gizmo's and looking down your nose.

BTW if I ever get away from double sided tape this is the direction I will go http://www.birkonium.com

All I asked was for some advice. I recall that there is a post by lance asking us all to be nice. I think it's wise to note that this is a very lightly moderated forum, and that appears to be Lance's intent. One thing I've seen to be true here is that few folks care how much you know and are much more concerned with how much you care. Folks will always use this forum to promote their products and services. And if they really care about this community, they will succeed because they care. I can think of several that fit that bill. The rest? Can't remember them.

Great point Roger I do apologize, unprofessional was indeed a poor choice of words -- inefficient would have been a better term. I try to present options and thought starters - its my belief that crafts persons are generally looking for ways to make improvements. There is never an intent to be condesending, as a matter of fact I always caution about calling any facet of the craft -- the best whatever.

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Ken Cierp

http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/

The LMI blade is so thin that it can drop into the threads of the mounting shaft if it is not smooth where the blade sits on the saw and gets slightly eccentric between the stiffners.

I thought my DeWalt contractor saw (threaded shaft) was not holding it's height adjustment until I noticed the hole in the blade was getting eccentric. My current Delta is smooth where the blade goes and a new LMI blade is fine.

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

I've had my LMII blade sharpened twice.

The first time all went well, and it came back good as new. The second time it came back 1/2" smaller than it went out, rendering it quite a nice coaster...

But it can be done, just ask about process first..l

Thank you guys great info ---- I'll check with the local sharpening services, my main concern was/is with maintaining the kerf width. The blade dropping into the shaft thread is something I would not have thought of in a million years.

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Ken Cierp

http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/