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I'm finally ready to position my bridge/saddle & don't know where to put it.

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Mike McNerney

Assuming you are talking about compensation and it is a steel string guitar then the simplest way to do it is to add 3/32nd or .1 inch to the scale length measured dead center of the slanted saddle slot.

Stew Mac's fret calculator provides estimates for how much saddle compensation to add for both E strings. That seems to be a good place to start.

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Bryan Bear PMoMC

Take care of your feet, and your feet will take care of you.

I also use the StewMac numbers. It is a good place to start.

What scale length are you using?

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Joe Beaver
Maker of Sawdust

I forget the numbers that I use off the top of my head. I double the nut to 12th, then add I think .15". I totally forget the angle I put into the saddle slot at because my slotting jig gets that for me..
If its your first time the stew mac calculator is the best place to start.


On a different note, I've found that the best way to get the bridge where I want it is to measure it and set it all where it needs to be. I then just drop a <i>tiny</i> bit of super glue down the two outer bridge pin holes. After it sets I drill the holes through.


Believe it or not, you can get away with quite a bit of variance on this. I know most luthiers wont tell you that, but if you measure a bunch of guitars, even high end ones, you'll get all sorts of different numbers.

thanks it's done & located. Finishing this weekend.

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Mike McNerney

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EJG5Frbu78c
this may help.

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John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

Several persons have mentioned "a good place to start"
Is there some adjustment made after this starting place?
I assumed the two ends of the saddle are located at scale length plus some compensation amounts.
Are there known guidelines for compensation amount based on string gauge, action height and playing style? I'm new to fixed bridges and this has me puzzled.
Thanks,
Dan

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wah
Wah-wah-wah-wah
Wah

Its a good starting place in the sense that it wont lead you astray, and for your next build, you can adjust to change your results as you desire. I've found that I personally get better results when I push the saddle back a bit farther than the stew-mac calculator tells me too.

And yes, there are some adjustments made after this starting point, such as where you have the strings break over the saddle.

there is a problem just using stew mac's numbers , Where did you get the fretboard ?? Not all are done to the exact same, If you want to put the saddle and bridge on the proper spot there are a few variables one must know.
SCALE LENGTH
not all are the same , Martin standard is 24.9 and 25.4 but I have found if you get one from Martin and one from Stew Mac and one from LMI that are all just slightly different.
SET UP
Are you setting up for a blue grasser hi action or a fingerpicker lower action.

Things you need to plan for
Top lift and bridge rotation and neck relief
saddle thickness

I add about .100 to the scale length to the 1st string I like to use a .100 thick saddle
I want the measurement to be just inside the saddle slot , on a 3/32 .094 saddle to the front of the saddle slot. Some people are using a 1/8 saddle and then you can go into the saddle slot about 1/64
the 6th string I will add .125 to that measurement.

This is assuming a normal action height of 2-3 . If you do a perfect fret dress and proper relief you can get action a bit lower. The higher the action and relief to more it will pull sharp.

On initial set up I would like to see about 2 cents flat the reason being the guitar hasn't settled in and it will let the top rise a bit and the bridge and saddle will rotate. It is more noticeable when you play up the neck. As the guitar settles in you will be able to intonate the saddle. Not all strings will be flat Usually the e is the one I go by the be may be spot on but as things settle you can make those saddle adjustments.
If you use a tape measure be sure it is calibrated to a fixed scale or better yet use a 36 in scale. That is what I use.

The fact is when you check intonation , it isn't true playing condition most people will pull strings a bit and as the action rises the strings will go sharp. It is the details in this part of the setup that will allow you to get the guitar to intonate to its fullest potential.

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John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

Hey John Hall with the method you use is that .025in difference in length between the respective E-Strings taken up by the saddle slot slant (say that 5 times fast) or is there an actual angle the front face of the bridge makes with respect to the center line?

Also BTW what is that tool you are using to rout off the finish? Is that air powered Dremel or something?

The confusion and mystery that this question always brings to the forefront is exactly why I invented and sell the KMG "Bridge Setter" fixtures which have scale length specific placement templates.

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Ken Cierp

http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/

Yes it is my inlay tool. It is a hi speed pencil die grinder mounted to a base. I use a 3/32 bit and set it to just barely clear the finish.

Over time the saddle slot angle changed. I have seen them as low as 2 degrees and as high as 4 degrees. I think the designers based that on the intonation off different strings.

Martin's are about 3 degrees. I am not sure when they changed. The older steel strings are about 2 degrees . John Arnold may be able to shed light on this.

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John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

John,
That grinder sounds worse than a root canal!

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wah
Wah-wah-wah-wah
Wah

I have one & it works great.

On the other hand, it's sort of like training wheels, but I'm ok with that.


Kevin Looker

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I'm not a luthier.
I'm just a guy who builds guitars in his basement.
It's better than playing golf.