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I follow most of Kent's video ideas except I actually add a strip of binding material instead of the strip of purfling as it gives me a bit more safety factor while shaping the bevel.







Fred

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Fred Tellier
http://www.fetellierguitars.com
Facebook page http://www.facebook.com/pages/FE-Tellier-Guitars/163451547003866

Thanks for all of your help Kathy, I'll be getting that video.

Fred, your idea makes sense to me as it provides a safety ledge (buffer) against the purfling.

Mike

Beautiful work Kathy, Danny V and Fred! I'm going to try a bevel for the first time on my next build and am going to order Kent's video to follow.

Fred --- that's what I was intending to do on my next bevel, because I did manage to have a little sand-through on my bloodwood veneer on my first bevel, and had to patch it. It turned out well, but having more bloodwood in there would certainly be a good safeguard!!! Your bevel looks great!

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Kathy Matsushita
San Jose, CA USA
http://theamateurluthier.com
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/kathy.matsushita

Ah! I see the second benefit I missed on my first couple of read-throughs. Makes total sense.

What are the differences between a "Ryan" style bevel and a "Laskin" style bevel?

What style is Kent's?

Can't speak to the Ryan bevel, but Laskin's is a rather pointed interface between the bevel and the binding edge, so that they don't so much merge as one turns into the other more abruptly.
Kent calls his a transitional arm bevel because it merges from binding to bevel without a visual 'break'. Hard to describe but I'm sure the Google has images of both.

The Laskin armrest is formed by a chamfering bit which due to its radius forms two entry/exit scoops which are mitered so that the side purfling comes down from the binding following that curve, along the chamfer and then back out again as it exits. Same thing with the top purfling. Kevin Ryan does something very different. Kevin's armrest starts at the waist and exits at the bass side of the endgraft. What is important is that the curve of the tool path for the top purfling essentially visually shifts the centerline of the top of the guitar to the treble side. It is a much harder armrest to pull off because it requires special jigs to cut the top and side tool paths and it requires great consistency in the shape of your guitar so everything lines up nicely.

I've found that calling a supplier (RC, LMI, Allied, Hibdon, etc) and getting some orphaned sides makes great bindings and it's wide enough to get a matching piece for a bevel, though I've only completed one bevel this far. To me it's a very cheap and effective way to get binding stock big enough to get matching bevel veneer.