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We went out and bought a plank of reasonably quartered SA Mahogany today. Took some sifting, even though it was from a pallet selected by a fella I used to work for.

So we determined how to lay out the blanks and made a few cuts...[IMG]http://img.tapatalk.com/d/

14/04/12/azavy2uv.jpg[/IMG]

Then we squared the edges on the jointer, and but to width on the tablesaw...[IMG]http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/12/
y4etubes.jpg[/IMG]

Then we zipped out to ad rinds shop who has a Resaw and got dirty...



We got nine sets of sides, but unfortunately only five sets of backs, as the extra width seemed to make the saw a little squirrelly, so I think I was pressing too hard or something. Next time I do better.

So we got five sets out of a 150$ plank, which cut the cost in half. Not bad for a first try...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks good. 5 sets for $150 isn't bad at all.

Josh

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Josh House

Canadian Luthier Supply
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House Guitars - Custom Built Acoustic Instruments.
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And if we had gotten nine back sets like we did side sets, it would have been amazing. But I won't complain that's for sure...

I can see why you're smiling! Looks like you can stock the shelves when you come across nice looking boards!

Alex

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"Indecision is the key to flexibility" .... Bumper sticker

That's not actually me, that's my lovely assistant...

Next we gotta try some proper hardwood and see what happens. So far the biggest obstacle is finding appropriate lumber...

I just tried my first attempt re-sawing an 8 inch wide piece of figured Maple for a LP top.
It turned out OK. The curly figure really pops because the blade followed the curves.
Oh yeah, don't feed figured Maple through a surface planer. It blew chunks.
I only wasted about half of the billet.

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wah
Wah-wah-wah-wah
Wah

Sometimes I blow chunks too.

Why are you sawing with the fence on the right of the blade ?????? Very awkward to do it that way, you have to reach under the saw to pass it through and you can't control the cut very well. I have seen people do it this way sometimes and I scratch my head, is it because a table saw fence is that way ??
To get good results you need to press firmly and consistently both against the fence (right in front of the blade) and from the back of the stock to move the board along. Your hand needs to be spread wide in the area in right in front of the blade. You can't do that well with the fence set up the way you have it. The most important pressure is against the fence. I have my right elbow tucked into my side and use my body to control the pressure. The left reaches back and pushes the stock along. I can stand beside the cut not behind, no can do with fence that way.
I strongly recommend you try the other way.
L.

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Cut to size.....Beat to fit.....Paint to match.

Borrowed saw, set up his way. I would do it the other way too. Even so, we were getting five slices an inch, which I think is pretty good...

L.

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Cut to size.....Beat to fit.....Paint to match.

Nice job and probably feels good to get that first one under your belt. What size and type of blade are you using? A nice sharp blade designed for re-sawing will help keep "the saw a little squirrelly" tendencies away. It looks huge but maybe it's just right for the task. Maybe your friend would let you install your own blade for re-sawing? Just a thought but still well done I'd say.

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Thank You and Best To All

I'm not sure what the blade was. It was about 1 1/2 wide. The saw itself was a fairly old Makitas 16" saw, not actually all that big...

got nine sets of sides, but unfortunately only five sets of backs

Mahogany's consistent enough that you'll be able to match those sides with backs from another board at some point. Or you can do a 3-piece back or two for a smaller body guitar with the extra sides...

Now that's good thinking!