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So I always seem to have to touch up finish after clamping the neck on. Anyone have a good way to protect the finish from damage when clamping the fingerboard extension. I always use a wood caul. I have tried putting tape, paper, and foam under set it. I have also just used a wood block. Nothing leaves it perfect. By the way, I am using em6000.

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ELEVATE || Next Level Lutherie
http://elevatelutherie.com
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http://ensorguitars.com

A bit confused.

Are you talking about on the back directly behind the heel?

I use a polish cloth folded four ways between the backing block and the finish. I also use a caul on top of the FB.

It's been a while since I've done a WB glossy, but I seem to recall it helping....

If you're talking about the back under the neck block I've not noticed any problems with WB finishes using 3 mm soft cork faced wedge shaped wooden block (on 2 guitars now)
Does the problem buff out? Or do you have to apply more lacquer?

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

I use an Irwin quick grip for the top one that presses against the back of the guitar. The more expensive model with the dense foam pad. This one http://www.google.ca/search?q=irwin+cla ... B450%3B222 Not the hard yellow pad. Never had a problem.

Thanks for the help guys. Yes, I am meaning the area on the back under the neck block. The finish is only slightly damaged/imprented with whatever material I have used thus far. It doesn't take much to fix- resand with two highest grits and rebuff usually does the trick. It's just annoying to have to redo these steps after perfecting the finish before gluing the neck on. I will have to try the cork lined block and see if that works.

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ELEVATE || Next Level Lutherie
http://elevatelutherie.com
&
http://ensorguitars.com

Imprinting is a factor on all common guitar finishes unless you go with a two part or UV cured material. I agree it is a pain.

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Joe Beaver
Maker of Sawdust

I am not sure it works on WB finishes, but I have had good success by warming nitro lacquer with a hair dryer. It may not make it completely disappear, but it does reduce the imprinting to the point that a light buffing is all that is required.

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John

Chris,

When you make your block, use cork on a scrap piece of leftover top. The flexibility of the spruce seems to mitigate the imprint problem. I've done this for years on both nitro and waterbournes and have no imprint issues. I use Irwin Quick Clamps (1 on the FB extension and 1 on each side of the neck joint). They have pads on them also, although I'm not sure this makes any difference.

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Jimmy Caldwell
http://www.caldwellguitars.com