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PostPosted: Thu Sep 26, 2013 1:35 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

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Be sure to do it when you rout the binding channels. Easy to forget. I have "did you shellac the top?" Written on my binding channel rig.

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.



These users thanked the author Terence Kennedy for the post (total 2): Pmaj7 (Thu Nov 07, 2013 5:41 pm) • Steven Bollman (Thu Sep 26, 2013 1:54 pm)
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 26, 2013 1:56 pm 
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Thanks, Terence! I appreciate that tip.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2013 12:51 am 
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The height adjustment on my vise stand is unbeatable.

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Finally cut the neck out of the hunk of mahogany.

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I'm pretty happy with it so far.

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Almost perfectly quarter sawn headstock.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2013 7:18 am 
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That vice stand is way cool...I want one!
Nice chunk of hog....!



These users thanked the author Robbie_McD for the post: Steven Bollman (Sat Sep 28, 2013 9:23 am)
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 28, 2013 9:23 am 
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Splitting the billet to make the brace wood.

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I think this is pretty good. Pretty straight grain.

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Woodworking tools can bite!

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This brace is rejected. The grain is too wavy.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 28, 2013 9:25 am 
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Robbie_McD wrote:
That vice stand is way cool...I want one!
Nice chunk of hog....!


It always amazes me what people throw out. It works so well with the vise on it.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 29, 2013 2:24 pm 
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Things are about to get scary as I prepare to cut out the sound hole. I really needs to be perfect without chipping or tear out.

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I got lucky again. Good result! Phew.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 29, 2013 2:29 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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As for chipout protection, I found Stewmac's carbide bit, while expensive cuts very smoothly without any fuzzy edge or chip outs. Now I do not know how long they will last but they work very well, much better than the HSS end mills I used to use.

_________________
Cat-gut strings are made from kitten guts, stretched out to near breaking point and then hardened with grue saliva. As a result these give a feeling of Pain and anguish whenever played, and often end up playing themselves backwards as part of satanic rituals.

Typhoon Guitars
http://www.typhoon-guitars.com



These users thanked the author Tai Fu for the post: Steven Bollman (Mon Sep 30, 2013 1:24 pm)
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 30, 2013 1:36 pm 
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Planing the X-braces.

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Planing the X-braces.

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Working on the X-braces. A laminate of Lutz spruce on the outside and Koa on the inside.

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Rip cutting a plank of Spanish Cedar for what will be the kerfed linings.

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Trying to be efficient by planing three strips at once. It worked!

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Planing the bevel onto the lining.

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Almost done. The last step before installing is to kerf the strips. I'll show that in the next post.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 30, 2013 5:39 pm 
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Oh my, that is looking really nice. I'm looking forward to seeing some more pics and progress reports.

Cheers!



These users thanked the author claire_au for the post: Steven Bollman (Tue Oct 01, 2013 2:18 am)
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 01, 2013 2:19 am 
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Kerfing the Spanish Cedar linings.

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Kerfed linings are done. They will have to wait their turn to be installed.

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A diversion... I worked on an ebony pick guard. Shape is not quite there yet. If I decide to use it, it will be the last thing glued to the guitar. I have time to think about it.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 04, 2013 2:26 am 
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This is the blank of mahogany I cut a one piece neck out of last week. I am now attempting to make a bird's beak joint between the neck and headstock.

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I think it took most of y day to figure out the layout. Believe it or not, there isn't much info on the internet about this joint. A little bit, not much. No dimensions. I've written them on the wood in case it comes out right I'll have something to go with should I choose to build another guitar with this style neck.

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Side dimensions.

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Getting the chance to use my magnificent Independence Dovetail saw. I think Lie Nielsen bought them out 13 or so years ago.

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Close up for tool dorks.

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Sawing and paring...

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Let the chiseling begin. Using an old Stanley #50 Everlasting chisel.

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Paring with a Robert Sorby paring chisel.

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Rough fit. Tomorrow I'll do the final fit.

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The headstock and neck still have to be shaped.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 05, 2013 1:46 am 
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Here's the neck and headstock assembly held together with gravity. The head plate is Madagascar Rosewood.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 7:59 pm 
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This is why this particular headstock/neck joint is call a Bird's Beak joint.

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Getting ready to shape the neck.

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I'm using a paring chisel...

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...and also a rasp that I bought about 15 years ago from a nautical supply store on the embarcadero in SF. I don't think it's still there. The upstairs storage room was loaded with new old stock of all kinds of tools. I bought a bunch of files and chisels for peanuts.

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It's a slow process. Lots of touching and feeling.

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Little by little... I still have a lot of material to remove.

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Last edited by Steven Bollman on Sun Oct 06, 2013 9:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 8:39 pm 
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Great progress!
You originally cut a 1-piece neck - why the switch to the birds-beak?
What was the the inspiration for the laminated x-braces? How wide will they end up?



These users thanked the author Robbie_McD for the post: Steven Bollman (Sun Oct 06, 2013 9:08 pm)
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 9:01 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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So what advantage does a bird's beak neck joint offer? It seems to be far more complicated than a scarf joint.

_________________
Cat-gut strings are made from kitten guts, stretched out to near breaking point and then hardened with grue saliva. As a result these give a feeling of Pain and anguish whenever played, and often end up playing themselves backwards as part of satanic rituals.

Typhoon Guitars
http://www.typhoon-guitars.com



These users thanked the author Tai Fu for the post: Steven Bollman (Sun Oct 06, 2013 9:13 pm)
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 9:12 pm 
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Robbie_McD wrote:
Great progress!
You originally cut a 1-piece neck - why the switch to the birds-beak?
What was the the inspiration for the laminated x-braces? How wide will they end up?


Thanks, Robbie. I'm well aware that screw ups are lurking everywhere. I bought a piece of mahogany that makes two necks, so I thought I'd make two. I really like the birds beak joint with the real volute. I thought I'd try it and see which neck looked best. The Stahl design (Larson Bros.) calls for a laminated X-brace. It will be significantly smaller when I get done with it. The design calls for 9/16" x 5/16".


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 9:15 pm 
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Tai Fu wrote:
So what advantage does a bird's beak neck joint offer? It seems to be far more complicated than a scarf joint.



Hi Tai Fu. It's more complicated. I can't say I know for sure if it's stronger. More than anything, I liked the idea of attempting it. It's an elegant joint. If it comes out nicely than I'll be happy.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 07, 2013 12:11 am 
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Some more refining. I think I still have to remove a lot of material.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 09, 2013 12:00 am 
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What do folks think... The "B" is a tad higher than I intended. Generally I'm pleased for a first inlay. I'm I being too anal?

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 11, 2013 12:11 am 
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Headstock slots drilled and cut lines laid out. This is my second headstock. I screwed the first one by trying to freehand drill a 1/2" diameter bit and expected it to come out on the other side where I wanted it to. Fat chance. It wandered. The good news is this head stock fits really well and is much tighter.

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Headstock slots roughed in. More refining tomorrow.

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Side view of headstock and volute.

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Another angle of the back of the headstock and volute.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 12, 2013 1:44 pm 
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Sanding the headstock slots.

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Laying out the fret slots.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 15, 2013 1:25 am 
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Getting ready to assemble the bird's beak joint.

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Here its goes.

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Using a nylon strap and clasp to clamp the headstock and neck during the glue up. I'm using Hot Hide Glue for all you glue aficionados.

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Trimming the base of the head plate where it meets the nut.

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Gluing the head plate to the headstock. Using an old headstock as a clamping caul.

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Tapering the ebony fret board.

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Getting ready to make the "ramps."

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Using a 1/2" round rasp.

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The finished ramps.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 15, 2013 3:39 am 
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Lovely work Steve,
You know your way around hand tools.

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Regards from RangeView, Bill



These users thanked the author P Bill for the post: Steven Bollman (Tue Oct 15, 2013 11:52 am)
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 15, 2013 11:53 am 
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P Bill wrote:
Lovely work Steve,
You know your way around hand tools.


Thank you P Bill!!!


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