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I've been using cocobola bindings on my rosewood guitars (classical, with w/b/w mitred purflings on sides, back, end strip and back strips). I'm starting my first using Macassar Ebony (with cedar top) and I'm up in the air about binding choice. I'm afraid the slightly green/tan hue of the ebony together with the reddish hue of the cocobola will look like a Christmas ornament. Does the sort-of greenish hue of the Ebony stay that way under finish? (I know, I need to do some testing.) What have you used in the past? Not looking for a lot of contrast in the bindings. I could always self-bind, but looking for a little something extra.

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Jim Kirby
kirby@udel.edu

I'd rather stick with off cuts of the sides for that classy tuxedo look or I'd go with curly koa or similar.

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How about pau ferro? Or black ebony. Or walnut. Maybe curly?

+2 for curly koa.... Am biased though as this was my first build Macassar with koa bindings

That's pretty indeed, but not what I'm after for the stately, low-key, de riguer classical look. Although, the ebony looks like it warms up enough under finish that my original concern may be moot. Time to test!

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Jim Kirby
kirby@udel.edu

I'd go with off cuts than.....

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"There's really no wrong way, as long as the results are what's desired." Charles Fox

"We have to constantly remind ourselves what we're doing....No Luthier is putting a man on the moon!" Harry Fleishman

"Generosity is always different in the eye of the person who didn't receive anything, but who wanted some." Waddy Thomson

Franks curly koa looks very sharp, but then the macassar he used is on the none typical side of outstanding. Have to see your sides but I would go with something dark, gaboon ebony or dark indian rosewood or BRW if you can find it

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Joe Beaver
Maker of Sawdust

My set tends more towards Frank's rather than Filippo's. I looked at it under naptha last night and I think it may well warm up enough under finish to not cause the problem I was worried about.

The snakewood is nice. Any of that lurking around anywhere?

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Jim Kirby
kirby@udel.edu

Good find! I was so lucky when I just found that set in 2007 - for only £160 which was the around $200 - slight flame on the back as well and have not seen anything close since - with even very average wood being in excess of £280

Snakeroot would be great IMHO, but again tricky to find... The Koa binding was from Bobc, not sure if he has any left with that tight curl, but saw he has some figured mahogany that could work.

Must admit, using side cut offs with say a 0.3mm pear or maple 'coach' lining would look early classy on a classical

If the wood already has a lot of contrast, my first choice would be side off-cuts, or something of similar or darker hue. Too much contrast, with figured, curly etc. woods can quickly make for a very busy and incoherent visual package (IMO). Generally, I think its not just a matter of which woods and colors "match", because lots of things can look great, but still not appropriate for all instrument. Its better to pick on a theme for the design concept, and chose the woods and appointments accordingly.

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