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PostPosted: Fri Apr 19, 2013 5:18 pm 
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Koa
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Joined: Thu Jan 10, 2008 5:08 am
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Location: Raleigh, NC
First name: Steve
Last Name: Sollod
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Status: Amateur
I am working on my 8th steel string build, a L-00. For previous builds I have used either Gotoh or Grover enclosed tuners that require a 10mm hole. Okay, now I have a set of the Grover open back sta-tite tuners and 10mm is too big. I measured the bushing and it is 0.343" or 11/32". The shaft of the tuner is 1/4". So, now I'm faced with needing a hole with two sizes on each end of the hole. I looked at Stew-Mac and they have a "1-step Peghole drill bit", but it's not the right size and I wouldn't pay $82 for it anyway! :shock: I guess the Waverlys are like this too.

I'm not crazy about the press on bushing... Should I consider different tuners? (...but then I'm stuck with these that I've had a long time...) I'm not trying to be authentic with this build, but I do want the style of the tuners to be in keeping with the design. Is there a method for drilling the holes for this type of tuner?

What do you guys do?

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 19, 2013 5:50 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 17, 2008 1:11 pm
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Location: Spokane, Washington
First name: Pat
Last Name: Foster
Country: USA
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With care, you can step drill the holes using common brad point bits, though I wouldn't recommend it for more than a build or two. After drilling the larger of the two holes to the depth needed for the bushing, center the shaft-sized bit carefully, checking from all sides before hitting the switch. I don't like doing it, but it's worked for me a couple builds.

Pat

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 19, 2013 6:09 pm 
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Location: Windsor Ontario Canada
First name: Fred
Last Name: Tellier
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Country: Canada
Focus: Build
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I have put the open back Grovers as a replacement for tuners had holes drilled for larger shafts and had no problems with them so you can drill right through with the 11/32 but only as a last resort. I would drill the bushing side to depth with a brad point then center the 1/4" brad point in the hole and finish drilling the rest of the way through. Practice a few times on scrap and do it.

Fred

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 19, 2013 6:23 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 22, 2010 12:49 pm
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First name: Victor
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City: Osseo
State: MI
Zip/Postal Code: 49266
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
I have used them once. I did as Pat and Fred and had no problem. Just be careful. Measure twice, drill once. Pals, Vic.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 19, 2013 6:24 pm 
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City: Lenoir City
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I've done it the same way Fred described and it isn't hard at all. Just be careful.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 19, 2013 6:36 pm 
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First name: Trevor
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Country: Australia
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There's a few ways of doing this that I've tried with success.

1) Much as Pat and Fred have said, but clamp your headstock to the drill press table, so that when you swap bits everything stays centred

2) Drill a small hole (~1/16" diameter) all the way through. This gives you a centre, both sides. Use brad point bits drilling small from one side, large from the other to get your stepped hole. If you have wood with differential hardness (very hard grain lines) you can get some deviation unless you're very careful and your bits are really good (centred and sharp)

3) Make a fixture(!) Drill the small diameter about half way through the headstock. Drill the same diameter through a piece of scrap board. Find some drill rod or similar of the same diameter. Chuck up the drill rod and use it to centre the hole in the scrap board and clamp the board to the drill press table. Push the drill rod through the hole in the scrap board until only ~1/8" protrudes. (Rather than drill rod, you could use the actual drill, but either way, it needs to be a tight fit in the hole. A couple of drops of CA can be used if necessary). This stub shaft now locates on the blind holes in the headstock, centring them, whilst you drill the larger holes from the other side. Set the quill stop so that you don't drill into the stub shaft.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 19, 2013 7:36 pm 
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I use a jig. Here are a few pics.
Attachment:
IMG_3955.JPG


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 19, 2013 7:49 pm 
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Koa
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Joined: Thu Jan 10, 2008 5:08 am
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Location: Raleigh, NC
First name: Steve
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Thanks Brian. That is helpful. That's probably the best way to do it.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 19, 2013 7:57 pm 
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Koa
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Joined: Thu Jan 10, 2008 5:08 am
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Location: Raleigh, NC
First name: Steve
Last Name: Sollod
Focus: Build
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For some reason my earlier post didn't get posted... Maybe it will show up.

Thanks everybody for the prompt responses. It's great to have the Olf as a resource.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 19, 2013 8:06 pm 
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Joined: Sat Dec 30, 2006 3:20 am
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Location: Powell River BC Canada
First name: Danny
Last Name: Vincent
Stew Mac has a bit for enlarging the 1/4" hole to accept the bushing. It works great and they have them in various sizes for other tuners. They are pretty reasonable. $15 - $20 range. If you can't find them on their site just ask them. I just got one myself and the guitar I'm waiting for the finish to kick will have the same tuners. A first for me also.

Brian's jig is cool and almost free! That one is well thought out my friend.

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Danny


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 20, 2013 1:01 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Wed Feb 20, 2008 7:15 pm
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First name: Ed
Last Name: Bond
City: Nanaimo
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Yup, spend the money at stew Mac and be done with it.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 20, 2013 6:23 pm 
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First name: John
Last Name: Arnold
City: Newport
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Zip/Postal Code: 37821
Country: USA
Focus: Repair
Status: Professional
I have never spent the money....I just use regular twist drills and drill the 1/4" hole first. Clamped in the drill press, of course.
I have also drilled a small pilot hole first, as Trevor describes. If you have a center drill, you can start with a pilot hole the diameter of the 'nub' on the end of the center drill. I also use center drills for drilling the pin holes in a bridge.
Alternately, you can drill the 11/32" bushing hole first, install the bushing, and drill the 1/4" hole through it. It works as a drill bushing to keep the holes concentric.

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