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I was wondering how many take this step when finish sanding - and what technique you use? I was sanding a neck the other day and have a hard time getting the rasp/files marks out of the end grain on the heel so I decided to dampen the wood a bit and 'raise the grain.' It seemed to sand out a bit faster but I'm not sure of the genuine effect. Any others raising any grain?

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Thank You and Best To All

Hi, you could try using a cabinet scrapper witch will give you a smooth finish! Or sometimes i use a electric sander on the more harder wood..

I always raise the grain two or three times when I begin finish sanding. A carry back to Mr. Thornton and high school wood shop.

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Joe Beaver
Maker of Sawdust

Indeed a cabinet scraper will be far more efficient at removing rasp marks then just sanding, even after raising the grain.

That said, raising the grain does make things easier to get the best surface possible.

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Alain Moisan
Former full time builder of Acoustics, Classicals and Flamencos.
(Now building just for fun!)

What Todd said.
I'm using water based, so I do lift the grain while finish sanding, even if sealing with shellac.
I would only add that if you are having problems removing rasp marks, what grade are you starting with?
I use 3 grades of rasp, and even after the least coarse still have to start with P80 or P100 paper, and make sure all the rasp marks are gone first. then work up though the grades to P 320 (I also a cabinet scraper at stages sometimes - depends on the mood).
Good lighting from all angles and touch are your best friends, to make sure all marks are removed at each stage.before progressing up the grades - if you find any marks, then go back to a coarser grade.
Good luck!

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

Yeah that's the schedule I use - was just wondering about the raising the grain aspect.

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I personnally never had any issues grain lifting figured maple. Although maybe I don't use the same technique as others. I just use a damp cloth (ringed pretty well) and wipe it on the guitar. Then I dry it using a blow dryer.

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Alain Moisan
Former full time builder of Acoustics, Classicals and Flamencos.
(Now building just for fun!)

Maple...although it doesn't have large grain pores it's still quite permeable. If you get too much water pooled on the surface it'll go deeper than you think...and it will stay in there a while.

Use a spray bottle and mist it on until it's lightly damp....or Alain's method...any method that avoids pooled water on the surface will be fine.

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I read Emerson on the can. A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds...true...but a consistent reading of Emerson has its uses nevertheless.

StuMusic

Here's an interesting take on raising the grain.

http://www.hardwoodlumberandmore.com/Ar ... Grain.aspx

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Thank You and Best To All