Official Luthiers Forum!

So how hard is the Uralykd 500 after it cures? Can you scratch it with your fingernail? I may have missed it but is the 500 product repairable years later like the tung oil product? So the 500 product is a varnish, not an acrylic/urethane?

Just seen the price (over $50 a quart). Why so expensive?

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Formerly known as Adaboy.......

How does the Tung product compare to the U500 in look, durability, hardness, etc.? How do YOU apply the U500?

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Gwaltney Guitars

What's the shelf life after you open it?

Will it harden in the can like Waterlox?

Kevin Looker

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I'm not a luthier.
I'm just a guy who builds guitars in his basement.
It's better than playing golf.

Hi, the U500 is very hard, you can't scratch it at all, or dent it with a fingernail. It is easily repairable, you just apply it over the existing finish and it bonds right to it. Sutherland Welles products have a "lock-lamin" system that permanently, molecularly bond new coats to previous coats.
One of the reasons for seeming to be more expensive, around $50 per quart, is that it has such a high solids content. There is very little solvent/drier in these finishes, (and the solvent that is used is of very high quality, it is made from distilled citrus peels) so you actually get more bang for your buck. I can finish around 3-4 guitars per quart with the U500, and 8-10 guitars with the tung oil. If you were using laquer, you would be lucky to finish 1 guitar per quart. Laquer has a very high solvent/volitile drier content, which evaporates away, and leaves a very thin surface build with each coat. 1 coat of the U500 leaves a surface build equivilent to about 5 coats of laquer.

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Guitar Maker and Purveyor of the World's Finest Tonewoods
http://www.aaronhixguitars.com/
http://stores.ebay.com/A-Hix-Tonewood-a ... r-Supplies

Kevin, the tung oil needs to be decanted into a smaller container after about 1/3 of the can is used. Shelf life is quite a long time as long as the air in the container is kept at a minimum. I just use small mason jars with a screw on lid. The u500 will be good for several months even if there is just a small amount in the can.

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Guitar Maker and Purveyor of the World's Finest Tonewoods
http://www.aaronhixguitars.com/
http://stores.ebay.com/A-Hix-Tonewood-a ... r-Supplies

Greg, the U500 is a harder, surface-building finish, whereas the tung oil is quite hard, but doesnt build as thick of a surface film (which is why I like it, it has VERY little effect on tone). Both of these finishes are outstanding.

_________________
Guitar Maker and Purveyor of the World's Finest Tonewoods
http://www.aaronhixguitars.com/
http://stores.ebay.com/A-Hix-Tonewood-a ... r-Supplies

Interesting, I'm going to give it a try on a guitar that I will be finishing for myself in a few months.

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Gwaltney Guitars

A couple of follow up questions.

It's one thing for new finish to adhere to old finish (applied years later). When you level the new finish will it show witness lines between old and new finish?

Is the smallest container 1 qt? For a hobby builder that completes roughly 1 guitar per year, it would be difficult (likely impossible) to keep the product fresh long enough to use it on 3 or 4 guitars (2-3 years). Sounds like one would have to be careful how they container and store the product to use 1 qt on even two guitars (store previously opened product for 1 year). If true, with shipping that's $30-$60 per finished guitar (1-2 guitars) for a hobby builder. Is my thinking wrong?

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Formerly known as Adaboy.......

What do you thin the U500 with when spraying?

Kevin Looker

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I'm not a luthier.
I'm just a guy who builds guitars in his basement.
It's better than playing golf.

There is no need to thin it for spraying, but you can use turpentine, mineral spirits, or Di-citrusol (the thinner made by Sutherland Welles). They suggest not adding any thinners for application, but it is the user's preference.

_________________
Guitar Maker and Purveyor of the World's Finest Tonewoods
http://www.aaronhixguitars.com/
http://stores.ebay.com/A-Hix-Tonewood-a ... r-Supplies

As long as you put any remaining product into an airtight container with minimal airspace, this stuff lasts indefinately. I have some U500 that is over 6 years old that I still use (I bought a 5 gallon container once and have been using it for a long, long time now and just keep putting the remainder into smaller and smaller containers). As for witness lines, as long as you go over the finish with 400 grit before application there will be no witness lines. I have never had to repair any finishes on my guitars, but I have made some repairs on wood flooring finished with it (from accidental damage, not finish degrade)

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Guitar Maker and Purveyor of the World's Finest Tonewoods
http://www.aaronhixguitars.com/
http://stores.ebay.com/A-Hix-Tonewood-a ... r-Supplies

Hi,.. Aaron,... I need ur suggestion for my finish guitar,.. Is this Old English (dist.by ReckittBenckiser Inc.) the Tung Oil? Last Year I've finish my guitar and I tried Old English for finishing coat and I feel happy for that until now,..
But the problem is, for a couple months I must re-coat that Old English Oil because that looks gloomy, so when I do to re-coat that like New again,.. but that's make me frustate... do you have the solvent of this problem,... thank's a lot Aaron, and this is the photos...
Body: mahogany with E I Rosewood top laminated
Neck: mahogany with Burl Teakwood fingerboard
Headstock: EIR veneer
all part did no wood filler...

"Another BIG plus is that if you finish your soundboards with the tung oil, you can glue your bridge on before finishing. When I first started building, one of the most daunting tasks was to scrape the laquer off of the top where the bridge was to be glued. Just another plus in my book."


Gluing the bridge on before finishing...Could you elaborate? Do you finish the bridge with the tung oil too?

Thanks!

Gary

Hi Herry, I am not familiar witht the type of oil finish that you used on your guitar, but it looks to me as if it is a linseed oil based finish, which does not build a hard protective finish like tung oil, and therefore will need re-application every now and then.
High quality tung oil finishes build a hard, protective surface finish, which is permanent and does not need to be re-applied.

_________________
Guitar Maker and Purveyor of the World's Finest Tonewoods
http://www.aaronhixguitars.com/
http://stores.ebay.com/A-Hix-Tonewood-a ... r-Supplies

Hi Gary, I do actually apply an application or two on my bridges when I use the tung oil, although it is not necessary. Since you wipe off the excess, it will not build up very much at all with just a coat or two, it just gives the wood grain a bit of added depth. I do the same on the fretboards.

_________________
Guitar Maker and Purveyor of the World's Finest Tonewoods
http://www.aaronhixguitars.com/
http://stores.ebay.com/A-Hix-Tonewood-a ... r-Supplies

Is that halo around the bridge from glue still on top? Also can you scrape the tung oil or the 500 and glue bridge after?

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Pat

What you see is just camera flash, it is a crappy picture.... not glue! hahaha I do better work than that!
Yes, you can scrape either finish off where the bridge is to be glued.

_________________
Guitar Maker and Purveyor of the World's Finest Tonewoods
http://www.aaronhixguitars.com/
http://stores.ebay.com/A-Hix-Tonewood-a ... r-Supplies

Yes, I know Brad and family well, tell him I said hi.

Greg

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Gwaltney Guitars