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The reset switch on the solenoid on my Grizz G0514X2 has popped and it won't reset. I assume I need a new one. It worked fine when we boxed it up in NY. Now I just got a 220 outlet wired, was all excited and bam, the dang thing doesn't work. I'm going to order the new part, but in the meantime is it safe to bypass the solenoid and wire the power switch straight to the motor temporarily? I just need to re-saw a couple sets ASAP.

I have fixed table saw on off switch, by dissaembling and cleaning everything, could be just dirty contacts? I would not wire directly as the surge of electricity might trigger your ac line 15 amp or 20 amp. an trip your main breaker switch,

When you say solenoid, you mean the motor starter? The thing that if the power is interrupted, the motor shuts off & won't automatically restart until you push the button again?

Yes, you can bypass it but is it popping because it's bad or there's a problem with the motor or wiring from the starter to the motor? I'd look at everything else & be certain that the starter is bad before I bypass it, it may just be doing it's job in protecting you & the motor.

The starter does not regulate the current or voltage & soft start the motor like a VFD can but it does handle the rush of current upon startup.

Kevin Looker

_________________
I'm not a luthier.
I'm just a guy who builds guitars in his basement.
It's better than playing golf.

yes, you of course can bypass it....but there is an associated risk...

in this case it would APPEAR to be the reset switch that is fried as it won't reset...

on the flip side, I used to work for a guy whose table saw motor was constantly throwing the reset button...so he decided to tape the sucker down...uh huh...shortly thereafter he had to put out the resultant fire with water from his jug...the point being the motor was going bad and that is why the reset switch was popping...hard to say the real cost of the situation as I bet rebuilding the motor (before he melted stuff in the casing and made that impossible) would have been a wash compared to getting a new one...

I'd have to say go for it and without a doubt have the new part on order ASAP...this is based upon the fact that I rewired a table saw motor to bypass said switch about 6 months ago as it got fried somehow...told my employer (a different one that above) about it and he still hasn't gotten a new switch...oh well, can't say I didn't warn him...

It's not popping, it's popped (pooped). Just like on an outlet that resets, but it won't reset. That's why I think it's the switch. Plus the electrical probe meter isn't getting anything on the motor. I'll re-order the built in reset/solenoid and install when it arrives

Just a thought, but have you checked your fuse/breaker panel?

Alex

_________________
"Indecision is the key to flexibility" .... Bumper sticker

Sorry, didn't stop & think for a second about your post. I think bypassing the starter would be the same as taping down the reset button which as Mike_P explained, might not be a good idea. I guess it's up to you at this point.

Kevin Looker

_________________
I'm not a luthier.
I'm just a guy who builds guitars in his basement.
It's better than playing golf.

Is it not reseting due to a short somewhere? It is tough to check for a short in a motor due to all the motor windings.

bypassed it and it still doesnt work. We're going to pull the motor off and have it looked at locally.

Sorry if this is dumb question, did you check the voltage at the motor after you bypassed the switch?

Kevin Looker

_________________
I'm not a luthier.
I'm just a guy who builds guitars in his basement.
It's better than playing golf.

Yes, the line is hot.

this obviously doesn't apply now as it appears there is a different issue...but when the reset button goes totally, it is dead and won't allow a reset, whether by taping it down or whatever...the taping down routine was done by somebody who got annoyed with the switch constantly popping in the middle of a rip...and as noted there were repercussions with this 'fix'...when the switch goes, it goes...thing is (and I wonder if the following is the root of the problem) when you change the wiring of a motor to go from 110 to 220, you only take one of the legs of 110 and run it to the reset switch...I'm pretty sure it won't take 220V...

FWIW, at least in the cases I use 220 on jobsites, 220 is achieved with a three prong outlet where the traditional black and white wires are both carrying 110V, and what is normally considered the ground wire becomes the neutral wire as it is carrying the electrons 'out' of the system...in the case of jobsite temporary wiring it is many times the case that the person who set up the temporary box doesn't run a wire connecting the neutral bar to the ground bar and this results with 220 not working correctly and even using a pencil sharpener (I'll explain that in a sec) will throw it out of whack...220V pencil sharpener you say?!, naaahhh...many times I hook into the 220 outlet because A: the breakers associated with it are stronger and B: this puts me on separate breakers from everyone else (usually idiots running 100+' of 16 ga. cords to run their tools)...what I do is at the end of my run of 10 ga. lead cord split it into 2 different legs of 110...if needed I will use a 220 2 way and run one to let's say the table saw, and the other get's split to run the rest of my tools...

the question is this: you say you have correct voltage at the motor, but is it capable of carrying a load?..i.e. is your wiring at your breaker box correct?

I'm going to check on the neutral stuff you mentioned tonight. It makes no sense. I know the lines are hot. We's got it hooked up to a two pole piggyback breaker. Power all the way to the motor but it doesn't make a sound when we turn the power on. I'm having it looked at today by a local shop. It if works for them then there is a wiring issue. But I don't think the wiring is the issue. My friend ran the power for me and he has been working as an electrician his whole life.

We took the motor off last night and took it all apart, checked for faulty connections, mechanical hindrances etc. It looks fine. So we cleaned it up and put it back together. Still nothing.

Thanks for the replies, hopefully this issue will be resolved soon. I called Grizzly to price out a replacement motor and it came to 700 bucks. That motor is getting removed for the next move!

if an electrician of tenure hooked it up then one would assume it has been done correctly...can't count how many times though that an 'electrician' did the temporary power pole and thought that the green wire for 220 gets hooked to the ground bar...

I was taught the connect the green wire to the neutral bar and connect that to the ground bar by the same doofus that fried the motor...since I made that post last night I figured I better ask an electrician about it all and he agreed the above is the way to do it...

what you haven't mentioned is if the motor was ever wired for 110 (assuming it is capable of that) and you changed it over to 220...if possible a test of running it on 110 might be warranted...

Well I took the motor to a shop that does repairs, they plugged it in and Wham, it runs like a top. At least now I know that the wiring is the problem. The part that sucks is that I torqued a bold off that is now stuck in my crank shaft of the motor. I thought it might have been reverse threaded and it was. I obviously didn't follow my intuition.

Anyways the breaker is 20 amp. I'm taking it back for a 30 amp.

It's currently wired with 12-2 strand. I'm swapping that for 10-2 hard wire.

I'm also swapping the outlet.

Hopefully this fixes my problems. What a learning experience

Also no, this motor was never wired for 110. It's only able to be wired to 220 or 440.

issue fixed. It was wired up wrong. I had this problem last time. Piggyback breakers don't work because it's only contacting 1 side of the 110, you can't do that because you need a +110 and a -110. I mentioned that when we were hooking it up but he assured me he knew what he was doing! No big deal. Just an inconvenience. I do wish I wouldn't have broken that bolt off in the motor shaft. I just ordered a new one for $1.00, two-day shipping to Alaska was $43.00. But otherwise it would have been 3 weeks for $17.00. There are no left-handed hex bolts in Fairbanks.

Anyways, it's wired up correctly now and works fine. I should have my replacement bolt by Friday and be 100% back in business this weekend for the first time in over a year. Then I get to take it all down and move to a nicer new shop on the 15th if the tenant is gone, otherwise March 1st.