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I'm working on a L-00 with Mahogany B&S and figured Maple binding. (I haven't used Maple binding before...) Should I mask off the binding when I pore fill the B&S or go ahead and Z-Poxy the bindings at the same time? I assume that the Z-Poxy would enhance the figure in the Maple...

Also... What about the top of the binding on the top of the guitar? If I Z-Poxy the sides of the Maple and not do the top, it might not look right. I could mask off the spruce top, leaving the top of the binding exposed, and Z-Poxy the top of the binding... (I plan to mask the spruce anyway.)

The other alternative is to mask all of the binding when I Z-Poxy the B&S...

What would you do?

Any thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks,
Steve

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Steve Sollod (pronounced sorta like "Solid")
www.swiftcreekguitars.com

Steve: I use zpoxy over figured maple bindings. Rubbing out any extra zpoxy at the edges generally covers the top edges. I don't mask the top as I generally fill the rosette with zpoxy also.
Tom

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A person who has never made a mistake has never made anything!!!

Z-poxy works great on figured bindings. really enhances the figure but will add a bit of an amber tone to them. To me it looks real good.

Fred

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Fred Tellier
http://www.fetellierguitars.com
Facebook page http://www.facebook.com/pages/FE-Tellier-Guitars/163451547003866

I'm funny about this. Maple does not need filling (generally) and I like the bright white contrast. Sooooo, I mask it. A bit more work, but worth it to me.

Mike

I don't think that maple is curly enough, Todd.

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I read Emerson on the can. A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds...true...but a consistent reading of Emerson has its uses nevertheless.

StuMusic

Somebody asked me to post a pic showing the masking.

Mike

Note: When I do mask the binding, I leave enough of the purfling exposed so that any potential gaps get filled with epoxy.

Another option if you don't like the amber that Zpoxy imparts is System 3 Clear Coat, which is virtually water white. The mix ratio is a more finicky but I use a digital gram scale and have never had any issues with it.

I actually like the amber tones. But I have used water clear epoxy when I did not want them. If the whole body is maple, it makes sense to coat everything.

Mike,
I get the masking part... I want to see what the maple looks like finished - after you masked it... I'm use to using Z-Poxy and I'm generally pleased with how it works. Not using it on the binding might give it more contrast. Will the Z-Poxy pop the figure better than finish coat?
Steve

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Steve Sollod (pronounced sorta like "Solid")
www.swiftcreekguitars.com

Hmm. Very good question. Without the epoxy, the grain may not "pop" as well. I do not like working the binding anymore than I have to. This topic is discussed often here. And it depends in the binding. Maple is not nearly as pore filled as is EIR or mahogany. So, if I am after contrast, I will keep the zpoxy off of the bindings. Then, in the final pass, I will use a wash coat of clear epoxy on the bindings.

Sorry, I did not understand the original question. If zpoxy had no color, I would still treat the binding the same. I just don't like getting tools and sandpaper near binding once I've set the dimensions.

Mike

Btw, I do not have an example ready. But when I finish these two, I will post pics.

I used to be ambivalent on the issue of grain popping. I have changed my opinion here. Some accomplish it by avoiding sanding back to wood. And I see the point here because u can open new pores. I like to get as close as possible, then use a wash coat to insure color tone.

Mike