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looks pretty simple, and simple is good.

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

I think the angle would be easier to add into the fixture then tilting the table, you will only get a little tilt before it hits the guide, then the fixture with the neck would have to stay in line with the axis of the table tilt. Is my picture similar to what you are doing?

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http://shastaguitar.com/
http://www.kalimbakit.com/
http://www.youtube.com/user/comfyfootgr ... ature=mhee
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+1 on make a jig for the angle....I have yet to find a digital angle measuring device that is worth a squat for real accuracy...sure, they give a close reading useful in figuring a starting point, but I certainly don't trust them for real accuracy...in your case you would also have to guarantee the spindle was perfectly plumb, etc...make a jig!

I bought one of these a couple of months ago, and found it to be very accurate. It is great for table saw, jointer and drill press set-up.http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.a ... at=1,43513

Alex

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"Indecision is the key to flexibility" .... Bumper sticker

That looks interesting Alex. Probably a dumb question but do the surfaces between which you are measuring the angle need to be metallic?

I've used it on wooden surfaces, the aluminum table of my miter saw, and on work surfaces. I wish I had bought one when I first saw them years ago! It makes a 22.5* bevel cut on a table saw easy. On metallic and non-metallic vertical surfaces, just make sure that you hold it square to the horizontal surface.

Alex

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"Indecision is the key to flexibility" .... Bumper sticker

Gotcha, thanks Alex!

I can't speak for Comfyfoot, but on the cnc it makes more sense for me to do the face of the heel first and then shape the heel contours. There seems to be less opportunity for tearout that way.

Hey Filippo......lets see this rig in action!

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"I want to know what kind of pickups Vince Gill uses in his Tele, because if I had those, as good of a player as I am, I'm sure I could make it sound like that.
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No specific reason comes to mind other then my standard order of operations from being a sash cutter for so long, always treat the ends first to prevent tear out as Don describes with the CNC. I also try to maintain the square edges as long as I can, but these decisions were made as a woodworker following standard woodworking order of operations, not decisions made from experience of performing this specific operation many times. The extra bit that gets sanded and shaped then cut off and trashed is not adding significantly to the time on the spindle sander, but the spindle sander is not going to tear anything out, so the point is moot.
I think though that something to align with the TR slot will help, trying to double stick tape it dead on the center line will be hard.
BTW, to give proper credit, this is a jig I learned from Charles Fox, a few minor personal mods.
I did manage to get the heel block and face shaped properly so there was just the tiniest amount of relief which flossed out nicely.

_________________
http://shastaguitar.com/
http://www.kalimbakit.com/
http://www.youtube.com/user/comfyfootgr ... ature=mhee
http://www.facebook.com/robert.renick.7