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Hello guys.

Just wanted to post my second guitar wich turned out very nice with a verry sweet sound.

Top: Spruce
Back & sides: Ziricote
Neck: Mahogany
Fingerboard & Bridge: Ebony

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http://www.yiannis.com.gr

http://www.luthier.gr

Very nice.
I especially like the rosette.
Unusual choice of bridge material for a classical.
But I would lose the fretboard markers - side dots are sufficient if you need a guide to the frets (I actually used correction fluid when learning on classical guitar with no fret markers because it's removable)
What plans did you use?

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

Hey Colin,
many thanks!

I used Daniel Friederich plans and the rosette is from

http://www.madinter.com/b2c/index.php?p ... ettes&md=1

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http://www.yiannis.com.gr

http://www.luthier.gr

Beautiful instrument - well done!

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"Act your age, not your shoe size" - Prince

Awesome! I like the headstock design.

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Alain
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Strange the photos look very much like cedar and macassar rather than spruce and ziricote but who knows

A few comments below. I'll hope you'll take it as constructive criticism that will improve your next.

-You have the scarf joint line showing way up on the back of the headstock. You need to have it lower, where the headstock bend starts. For this you need to take the neck blank thinner (I guess around 18mm) rather than the usual 22-25mm they come in. Do this only at the end as a thick blank is useful to support the fingerboard clamping

-the neck thickness seems to decrease abruptly from under the first fret to the nut area. Try to keep the thickness very smoothly declining from the heel to the nut and you might even want to leave it a bit thicker under the nut as it is the thinnest and most fragile part of the neck.

-don't be afraid to work a chisel deeper in the heel. You have maybe 5mm or more of too much wood on it

-ebony is not a usual material for a classical bridge as it is very heavy. However there are a number of high profile makers using it successfully. Yours appears to be a bit bulky in dimensions even for rosewood. Buy a scale and try to keep ebony under 25 grams. Friederich makes his rosewood bridges around 22 grams.

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Build log

Nice work. Simple and elegant. What kind of finish did you use?

Omorphos, Yiannis!

Alex

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"Indecision is the key to flexibility" .... Bumper sticker

Guys thanks a lot!

Goodin i used a nitro lacquer that is applied with a muneca like shellac.

Alexandru you have a great eye.All the things you wrote are correct and will try to work on them in the next project.

About the scarf joint you say i should thinner the neck before i cut the joint?

I used a scale on a same bridge i have and is 41gr.What problems do you think this can cause?

Alex nice Greek


Thanks again

Yiannis

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http://www.yiannis.com.gr

http://www.luthier.gr

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Yes take the neck thinner. I don't know the exact figure as it depends on the angle you use. You could draw a section on paper. I don't bother with this on my guitars, I always glue a plate on the back of the headstock, matching the back or the binding.

A heavy bridge can have a quality tone and a lot of sustain but can also slow down the response and cut on the power. Imagine that you try to start and move a very heavy car with a small engine. The typical weight of a classical bridge is from 20-25 grams, and some try to make it even lighter. Typical dimensions are 186mm long, 28mm wide, 3.5-4mm thick wings, 8mm height. With a dense bridge you can make it 27 or even 26.5mm wide, 3mm wings, 7mm height.

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Build log