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PostPosted: Sat Sep 15, 2012 9:26 am 
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Walnut
Walnut

Joined: Wed Sep 28, 2011 3:28 am
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First name: Alexander
Last Name: Baev
City: Zaporozhye
Zip/Postal Code: 69093
Country: Ukraine
Focus: Repair
Status: Amateur
Hi.
I need advice on solving the following problem. I have a guitar with partly unglued bridge. The problem is that the top is not smooth. It has a cavity from the side of the soundhole and a hump from the other side. Is it possible to level the top? What is the best solution in this case?
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/827/p1010137m.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/820/p1010131m.jpg/


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 15, 2012 11:05 am 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2008 3:57 pm
Posts: 775
Location: Powell River BC Canada
First name: Daniel
Last Name: Minard
City: Powell River
State: BC
Country: Canada
It looks like you have a few challenges to deal with here. First, you will need to remove the shell (or plastic) dots on the bridge. You will probably find screws underneath.
Once the screws have been removed you will need to heat the bridge to soften the glue.
It looks like the top has several open cracks already. It will take care & patience to work the bridge off (with a thin palette knife) without digging large chunks of spruce out of the top.
Once the bridge is off, the loose bits of spruce will need to be glued back down & the area flattened out. Hydrating the top with damp paper towels & clamping the area flat is the next step. This may take several tries over several days, before it stops springing back into its current shape. You will need to make appropriately shaped cauls to do the clamping job.
Then, you will need to flatten the bottom of the old bridge or make a new one.
Once that's all done, it's a fairly simple matter to prep the gluing surfaces & re-glue the bridge.
I would use hide or fish glue.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 15, 2012 3:21 pm 
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Walnut
Walnut

Joined: Wed Sep 28, 2011 3:28 am
Posts: 7
First name: Alexander
Last Name: Baev
City: Zaporozhye
Zip/Postal Code: 69093
Country: Ukraine
Focus: Repair
Status: Amateur
Daniel Minard wrote:
It looks like you have a few challenges to deal with here. First, you will need to remove the shell (or plastic) dots on the bridge. You will probably find screws underneath.
Once the screws have been removed you will need to heat the bridge to soften the glue.
It looks like the top has several open cracks already. It will take care & patience to work the bridge off (with a thin palette knife) without digging large chunks of spruce out of the top.
Once the bridge is off, the loose bits of spruce will need to be glued back down & the area flattened out. Hydrating the top with damp paper towels & clamping the area flat is the next step. This may take several tries over several days, before it stops springing back into its current shape. You will need to make appropriately shaped cauls to do the clamping job.
Then, you will need to flatten the bottom of the old bridge or make a new one.
Once that's all done, it's a fairly simple matter to prep the gluing surfaces & re-glue the bridge.
I would use hide or fish glue.

Thanks, Daniel.
Actually the major question was how to flatten the top. I already put off and reglued bridges but on rather flat tops.
Could you please give me more thorough explanation of flattening the top with approximate timing (I mean how long should I apply wet paper and so on). Should I add some braces to the top?


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 15, 2012 3:25 pm 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Tue Jan 18, 2005 11:36 am
Posts: 1595
State: ON
Country: Canada
Status: Professional
I've used this with some sucess to flatten tops that have pulled up in the bridge area.

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Special_tools_for_Bridges/Thompson_Belly_Reducer.html

Josh

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 15, 2012 5:59 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Tue Mar 10, 2009 7:11 pm
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First name: jack
Country: usa
"It has a cavity from the side of the soundhole and a hump from the other side."

just about impossible to correct, short of removing the back, and re-bracing the top...


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 15, 2012 6:05 pm 
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Mahogany
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Joined: Sun May 09, 2010 6:10 am
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First name: David
Last Name: Radlin
City: Belle River
State: Ontario
Zip/Postal Code: N0R 1A0
Country: Canada
Focus: Repair
Status: Semi-pro
This sounds like a place for the JLD Bridge Doctor...

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 15, 2012 9:35 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Wed Feb 20, 2008 9:12 pm
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First name: Mike
Last Name: O'Melia
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I think what is missin here is the name and model of the guitar. Second, those pictures are not very good resolution. That is a strange looking bridge. And the top has very wide grain. How old is this guitar? Screws in the bridge is not a good sign. And what are they anchored in? Reach in there and feel around. If this is some kind of vintage guitar of value, then any advice you get here should be based on that.

Mike


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 15, 2012 10:42 pm 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2008 3:57 pm
Posts: 775
Location: Powell River BC Canada
First name: Daniel
Last Name: Minard
City: Powell River
State: BC
Country: Canada
I agree that the dip in front of the bridge is probably not fixable. The hump behind the bridge is a simper matter. Make a caul for the inside that has a slight negative radius so when you dampen & clamp the top, you will be pushing it down in a gentle arc. When it springs back, it might just end up where you want it.
The caul might have to be slotted to miss the internal bracing. A bright light inside the guitar will show you where the braces are located.
Edited later due to dyslexic moment.


Last edited by Daniel Minard on Sun Sep 16, 2012 2:22 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2012 1:12 am 
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Walnut
Walnut

Joined: Wed Sep 28, 2011 3:28 am
Posts: 7
First name: Alexander
Last Name: Baev
City: Zaporozhye
Zip/Postal Code: 69093
Country: Ukraine
Focus: Repair
Status: Amateur
Mike O'Melia wrote:
I think what is missin here is the name and model of the guitar. Second, those pictures are not very good resolution. That is a strange looking bridge. And the top has very wide grain. How old is this guitar? Screws in the bridge is not a good sign. And what are they anchored in? Reach in there and feel around. If this is some kind of vintage guitar of value, then any advice you get here should be based on that.

Mike

It is 1987 Bulgarian Kremona so I don’t suppose it’s something of big value. If more pictures are needed just say what point would you like to see.
My plan is the following. Unglue the bridge. Make appropriate caul to curve the top in the direction opposite strings tension. Reglue the bridge. The question is what area should I wet? From the inside or outside? What is the best method of wetting?


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