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PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 4:40 pm 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Sun Nov 09, 2008 4:29 pm
Posts: 140
Location: Markham, ON (Canada)
First name: Charlton
Last Name: Wang
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
For those of you who have built your own buffing stations, did you just get any steel rod or did you specifically get a drive shaft rod? I was going to get some cold rolled steel rod from Metal Supermarkets but I'm not certain if it's going to be straight enough or if I should get something like this from McMaster Carr:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#rotary-shafts/=ja1ibs

Thanks for your input.

Charlton


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 5:26 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Wed Feb 20, 2008 9:12 pm
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First name: Mike
Last Name: O'Melia
City: Huntsville
State: Alabama
Focus: Build
Status: Semi-pro
When I looked into this, I considered Go Kart axles.

But, you can buy a full arbor from Grizzly for what an axle costs. ($99). So why bother? Unless you want something really wide.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Buffing-Assembly/H3559

Mike


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 8:18 pm 
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Mahogany
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Joined: Thu Jun 02, 2011 8:07 pm
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First name: Stephen
Last Name: Williams
City: Leesburg
State: Virginia
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
I purchased a Go Kart axle off of eBay (1" dia, 48" length) for around $25, including shipping. ( I plan to use it to make a drum sander.) Seems pretty straight, but I haven't checked it against my straight edge.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 8:54 pm 
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Mahogany
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Joined: Thu Jun 07, 2012 3:17 pm
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First name: Randy
Last Name: Jones
City: Santa Clara
State: CA
Zip/Postal Code: 95050
Country: United States
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Status: Amateur
For both shop built drum sander and buffer I dont think dead nuts straight is critical. On the drum sander you'd true the drum to the table so the drum will true any wobble in the shaft. For my drum sander I used the cheapest 1" steel rod I could find.. About $20. The overall stiffness of the axel is more important than straightness, otherwise you'd have to re-true the drum from time to time.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 9:57 pm 
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Joined: Sat Dec 05, 2009 3:51 pm
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First name: Chris
Last Name: Ensor
City: Springfield
State: Missouri
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I used a 30" piece of cold roll steel for my buffer and it has been working great. I almost wish I would have gone with a little bit longer piece though.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 10:06 pm 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Sun Nov 09, 2008 4:29 pm
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Location: Markham, ON (Canada)
First name: Charlton
Last Name: Wang
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Thanks. I think I'm just going to go with the cheapest piece of cold-rolled steel. Anyone have suggestions on how much threading to do on each end? I was thinking maybe 7.5"?

Thanks,
Charlton


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2012 7:42 am 
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Koa
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You don't want cold rolled steel, you want ground and polished shafting.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2012 7:49 am 
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I threaded the end of mine for 5" (i think). Don't forget to do reverse threads on one side. I guess the other option is to use locking nuts or washers.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2012 11:40 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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First name: Mike
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dberkowitz wrote:
You don't want cold rolled steel, you want ground and polished shafting.


Yup. Maybe EBay?


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 15, 2012 12:05 am 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Sun Nov 09, 2008 4:29 pm
Posts: 140
Location: Markham, ON (Canada)
First name: Charlton
Last Name: Wang
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
I've looked on ebay for go-kart axles and while the axles can be had fairly economically (say $40-$50), shipping to Canada generally doubles that cost. :(


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 15, 2012 9:32 am 
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Koa
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http://www.mcmaster.com/#ground-shafts/=jax1br


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 15, 2012 6:14 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Wed Feb 20, 2008 9:12 pm
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First name: Mike
Last Name: O'Melia
City: Huntsville
State: Alabama
Focus: Build
Status: Semi-pro
Let's clarify. What you want for anything wider than 36" is at least 3/4", 1" is better. 1" shouldered down to 5/8" for the nuts. Last time I looked at these, they were closer to $100. Has this changed? (go kart axles)

Mike


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