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Used a router to cut the channel in the lining where the UTB will sit. On the first cut I didn't have good light and cut a little too far and went into the side leaving it thin. When I was squaring the corners with a chisel, I used a bit too much pressure and the side split out where it was accidentally thinned. Third mistake, didn't gather everything needed before trying to glue the split with CA. Held the split with my finger and it started sticking to the wood. I feared the split might pull away when I removed my finger so I hurried and clamped it with a 3" C clamp. After it dried I realized I had failed to put wax paper between the clamp and the mahogany.......and the clamp was now glued to the side above the split. The top layer of the split pulled away when the clamp came loose leaving a small gap. So long story short, I need to repair the gap and the thin area surrounding it.

I still have the excess sides that were trimmed away before bending and they are a good color match. Think I can cut a 0.2"X0.2" square from the side trim and cut a matching area in the side around the gap and have it come out looking ok? Actually, I would cut the opening then trim/sand the plug to match the hole.

Any suggestion for repairing this would be appreciated. Here are a couple of pics.

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Formerly known as Adaboy.......

Darryl: I think you would be better off using a piece about .200" by 1.5"and feather the ends rather than a butt joint. Also if you wanted a darker guitar a bit of stain will also help. Or perhaps put in a decorative bit but be ready for the question.
Tom

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Pat

I once saw Sergei de Jonge do this exact repair on a mahogany side with a small semi-circular patch. It was completely invisible by the time he was finished.

David, did he cut a mahogany piece, trace around it, and then "inlay" the piece similar to how a diamond or dot is inlaid in a fretboard?

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Formerly known as Adaboy.......

If memory serves, that is exactly what he did Darryl.

Looks like you,ll have to add 1/4" of side purfling Darryl

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Alain
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From what little time I spent with Sergei, it seems to me like he is a madhatter/magician. That guy can do things with such ease it's not even fair.

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I would not recommend using CA if you do an inlay repair. It tends to show the glue line and will be very obvious.

Thanks for the responses.

I will likely use fish glue for the repair. The shape etc. of the repair are yet to be determined but I like Tom's suggestion to go longer so I can glue to the lining.

If you have done a similar repair or have additional insite, I would love to hear from you. John at Blues Creek volunteered to assist so I plan to call him later today.

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Formerly known as Adaboy.......

Darryl: The main point about going longer was so you could feather the ends(or scarf or however we want to say it) of patch so there was not a butt joint across grain. The butt joint is harder to get done without it being very noticeable. The lenghtwise joint with the grain should blend in nicely if you get a nice grain match. Best of luck.
Tom

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A person who has never made a mistake has never made anything!!!