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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2012 5:18 pm 
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Mahogany
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Joined: Thu Nov 17, 2011 12:23 pm
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First name: Ed
Country: England
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Good idea.

Looks like I will be making some additions to my board.

Thanks.

Ed


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2012 5:25 pm 
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Koa
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I like it! Must make one soon.....

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2012 6:08 pm 
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Very nice! I've always wanted to make some kind of clamping set up for my shooting board and this looks like the ticket. Thanks Filippo!


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2012 6:16 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Very nice Filippo. I'm surprised the lock down clamp isn't made out of QS Cocobolo laughing6-hehe .

Steve


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2012 7:43 pm 
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I'll be copying that one. [:Y:]

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2012 8:05 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Awesome idea! I usually have to clamp something behind the piece I'm working on, to give it something to back up to. This would solve that.

Thanks for passing the idea along!

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2012 8:10 pm 
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Doh! This is perfect! (back to work room to do jig mods instead of building...hahaa!)


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2012 9:33 pm 
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Koa
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First name: Patrick
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Yep, a real simple and nice hold down. Very nice, Filippo. I'll say it once again: Some of these things are just so darned obvious......once someone else points them out to us.
Patrick


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2012 11:54 pm 
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First name: George
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Brilliant! I've struggled to keep pieces in place in the past, so will definitely add this to my Todd Stock-style shooting board.

Thanks for sharing!

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 1:34 am 
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Mahogany
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Nice addition. I'll be upgrading my shooting board.
I'd also like to take this occasion to thank Todd for the tutorial he'd posted so long ago. I think it was the first jig I'd built. Thanks guys.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 10:23 am 
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Nice, Filippo! I'll have to mod my TS shooting board that I won at John's a few years ago!

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 10:35 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Location: Virginia
I might have to give that a try, thanks. It's always the entry and exits while shooting that give me a problem, maybe this will help.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 11:23 am 
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It's a nice idea. Do you have any issues with the clamp block wanting to twist from the knob tightening? I've stopped using certain kinds of clamps because of that little twisting that happens, especially when gluing. This looks pretty great though. I like it.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 11:36 am 
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Koa
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I never realized it was a novel idea to put a clamp on shooting board - I always thought it was necessary.
For the reason that Don mentions above - I have been using a toggle clamp for my board -

Image

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 7:41 pm 
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Mahogany
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I like it.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2012 8:11 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Location: Tampa, Florida USA
You could also put a cam clamp in place of the knob.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2012 8:28 am 
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My shooting board has two cam clamps from Rockler (8 bucks) and uses a full length board clamp - the pieces being shot sit between the clamp board and the base, and then the whole thing gets tightened down, keeping everything tight so you concentrate on the plane, not on holding anything still

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2012 9:24 am 
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TonyKarol wrote:
My shooting board has two cam clamps from Rockler (8 bucks) and uses a full length board clamp - the pieces being shot sit between the clamp board and the base, and then the whole thing gets tightened down, keeping everything tight so you concentrate on the plane, not on holding anything still


Would you post a picture, Tony?


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2012 10:16 am 
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sure .. had to find and crop it down ...

So the whole rig is clamped to my table saw taop, and then the back in this case is under the clamp board, and that has the blue cam clamps one at each end. There is also a stop at the top for the pieces to rest against and not move forwards at all. The base has a lifter piece under it at the top end so that the cut is on an angle or ramp, using more than just 1/4 inch of the blade to make the cut. The clamp board itself has a piece of maple on it to stiffen it up, as its easy to flex a curve into it with the clamps only at the ends, especially if the top or back is shorter than normal rough cut lengths. This rig can handle a 22 inch long top/back I think ... I can also get my harp tops/backs into this, as the upper harp arm hangs out the bottom left of the jig.


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