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 Post subject: Fixing Spruce tearout
PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 3:08 pm 
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I tore out some of this spruce top with some tape.

Whats good for filling/repairing etc

Its just above the bridge 4 or 5 threads about 20mm long

J


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 3:22 pm 
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A few ways to go on something like that. If I was doing an epoxy pore fill I would simply fill with some SB-112 and scrape flush then finish as normal. You could wait till you had your sealer down and do a burn in repair with a clear lacquer stick or you could simply drop fill whatever was left at the end of your finish process. You will always be able to see it because you know it's there but to most others it will appear as an anomaly in the wood.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 3:40 pm 
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Can't tell how deep. Maybe sand down.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 3:44 pm 
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Its too deep to sand down, I could reduce it but not remove it by sanding

J


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 4:23 pm 
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Since end grain isn't involved, in addition to the above, you can simply fill with with CA and scrape flush, It'll blend right in under finish, but upon close examination you'll still be able to tell.
it's also possible to fill with a sliver of the off cut, and get a perfect fill that is very hard to detect, that takes a little cutting on the top though. I believe Stew Mac has some tools just for this.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 5:28 pm 
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Seal it with the lightest Shellac. Then you can drop fill with CA or some other clear finish. See what it looks like after that treatment. You can try all this on an off cut of your spruce top, deliberately recreating the tear out.
Forget coloured fillers/sawdust. They make matters much worse and the reflection is all wrong.
If you aren't satisfied with the results:

viewtopic.php?f=10117&t=33079

Except your slivers will have to be shaped a little different. Original soundboard off cuts will help enormously. If you are going this route the best advice is: practice, practice. practice. Practice until you are absolutely comfortable with the procedure.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 6:38 pm 
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If you use CA, do not use it directly on the spruce unless you are certain that it will not react with the spruce. I know for certain that starbond will turn the top lime green.

In other words SHELLAC!

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 7:44 pm 
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If you have the tore out pieces left on the tape, gluing them back in would be optimal. Do you have them?

Second choice, for me, would be to fill with scrap spruce, matched from cut-offs.

But seriously, if the guitar was not for a customer, I'd drop fill it and call it good.

How to drop fill it? I've only ever shot varnish, I'd put a few coats on it, then level it a bit, then drop fill with medium CA. Then varnish over..


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 9:11 pm 
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Sometimes you can expand the wood with heat and steam, just like fixing a dent. It won't all come out but with some sanding it will be close. I would at that point finish over what is left and then drop fill to level it out. Before I smartened up and made sure there was a coat of shellac on the top to protect it from tape and minor dings I did something similar and by steaming, sanding, and drop fill after the top was lacquered only I can see it.

Fred

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2012 4:48 am 
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In the future, try drafting tape. And/or put some shellac on the spruce before putting tape on, which also helps prevent lifting fibers when you peel of the tape. But the tack on drafting tape is so low, I've never had it lift fibers.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2012 9:48 am 
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MikeyV wrote:
If you have the tore out pieces left on the tape, gluing them back in would be optimal. Do you have them?

Second choice, for me, would be to fill with scrap spruce, matched from cut-offs.

But seriously, if the guitar was not for a customer, I'd drop fill it and call it good.

How to drop fill it? I've only ever shot varnish, I'd put a few coats on it, then level it a bit, then drop fill with medium CA. Then varnish over..


No I don't have them, it was a while ago when I did it, Its my fist kit build so I an not too bothered - just using is as a practice

I am finishing with shellac and oil - so its something that is compatible with that finish I am looking for


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