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I just got my new LMI blanket controller with the temp sensor. It is a sweet device. I also added a waist blanket to help avoid scorching in that area.

I bent an old piece of sapele I had laying around and it went great. I set the temp to 307, bent pretty quick starting at 275 degrees and finished within about six minutes. (actually about 3 minutes to bend the waist, unplug the waist blanket, wait for the main blanket to get to 275 and another 3 minutes to bend the bouts)

I have some builds planned with wood that is expensive and I haven't bent before.

The woods I have in mind are Zircote, Macassar Ebony, Koa and Flamed rope mahogony.

Any help with the best temperature setting for each? At what temp do you start the bend? How slow or quick do you bend?

I appreciate any advice I can get!!!

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Joe Beaver
Maker of Sawdust

Great question, some time ago someone on this forum (Hesh not sure?) was having everyone input their desired bending temps per wood species with the idea that it would all be compiled into a nice spreadsheet. I never saw the final product nor am I sure if it was ever completed, it sure would be useful. I can't help you with the species you've listed but I'm sure someone will chime in and help out.

Thank you Mark.

I haven't seen Hesh for some time. It was always nice to see him here.

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Joe Beaver
Maker of Sawdust

Linked below is an article by John Mayes on the 13th Fret. In it he provides his temps for bending the most commonly used b&s woods, plus some other helpful info......

http://www.13thfret.com/articles/sidebending.html

Great Info Charlie!!!

I'll save it, Thank you

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Joe Beaver
Maker of Sawdust

I start all my bends at 300f. I bent the lower bout first, then the upper bout, then the waist last. By the time I get to the waste it's about 350. Then I turn it down and let it cook at 225-250 for a half hour. I haven't burnt a side yet using my Fox style bender, though I've scorched one on the hot pipe pretty bad.

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Old growth, shmold growth!

Success is the proof of the pudding!!!

Thanks for the info

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Joe Beaver
Maker of Sawdust

What is the advantage of bending the waist last? It seems like if you bend the upper and lower bouts first, they would pretty much be locked in place, and you would then have to "stretch" the sides in the center to bend the waist, and/or adjust the upper and lower bouts afterward. I have no experience with a Fox style bender but plan to build one soon, so I'm just trying to understand the process. Thanks!

Mike Doolin bends the waist last, and I've been doing so (using a Doolin-style bender with spring tension on the upper slat) as well. I'll be modifying it to add a cantilevered fox-style waist press, however, as I'm not quite happy with the functionality of it yet. Articles at http://www.doolinguitars.com/arcitlces/

The thinking (as I follow it) is this:
- Pre-heat everything
- Put in side (wrapped in moistened brown craft paper to add a little water, but not too much, open at the sides to let the steam out)
- Bend lower bout first, blocking/clamping the tail in place - the butt joint is where I want the wood to mirror perfectly.
- Then bend the upper bout 'loosely' without clamping it in place.
- Finally, clamp down the waist (the tightest bend) once it has had the most time to heat and plasticize. The bend also 'pulls' the wood into place over the upper bout, with full support on both sides from steel and mold. Then clamp waist and finally the upper bout.

Have you watched Todd Stock's Youtube videos?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q7vd9wGG4LM

Kevin Looker

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I'm not a luthier.
I'm just a guy who builds guitars in his basement.
It's better than playing golf.