Official Luthiers Forum!

Hi everyone - I picked up the Hock violin knife 3/4" a little while ago.
For Xmas I picked myself up a Porter Cable belt/disc sander (yesterday) - and in short order and only a very minimal time investment I made this -- my first knife handle, it is Bolovian rosewood (it stinks when cutting too, nothing like roses)

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It's this new idea from recent decades that everyone gets a participation award. - MUX

Looks nice! I’ve made several tools with Hock blades and I really enjoy using them.

Joe

Have the same hock knife But used white oak for the handle , w oak ,local , cheap, and readily available.One person/.s local wood is someone elses exotic Hmmm. For getting into the really tight curves I use a single bevel german vln knife that I put a curve on similiar to a spanish cuchillo when sharp works well. Have fun carving. Contrary to mass opinion a sharp knife will give you a nasty cut. Have lots of them cuts, when knife slips, or I/m distracted and not paying attention.

Yes, that's a nice handle which deserves the blade it hosts.


Right. But it hurts less at the same depth of cut. Problem is that one typically will cut deeper with a sharp knife.

I have two Japanese "violin knife" (it's marketed as inlay marking knife) because I couldn't find the hock stuff while I was ordering stuff, and the hock stuff is really expensive.

I made handles for them out of ebony...

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Cat-gut strings are made from kitten guts, stretched out to near breaking point and then hardened with grue saliva. As a result these give a feeling of Pain and anguish whenever played, and often end up playing themselves backwards as part of satanic rituals.

Typhoon Guitars
http://www.typhoon-guitars.com

Are these Hock blades hollow ground for carving?

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Old growth, shmold growth!

Looks elegant! Bolivian rw is not a true rosewood btw.

John, that's a very nice looking handle. Is the blade removable? I just bought the same Hock blade and am about to make a handle for it this weekend, but can't decide if I want to make the handle removable or not. Seems if it is removable, it would be easier to sharpen?

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Jason McGowan
M&S Guitars
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United States of America, looks like another silent night
As we're sung to sleep by philosophies that save the trees and kill the children....
Casting Crowns

I have no problem sharpening as I like a longer knife - so I left plenty of the blade sticking out - but it is removable - it is in there with a tight fit, just friction.

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It's this new idea from recent decades that everyone gets a participation award. - MUX

That's pretty much how I was thinking about making my handle, just wasn't sure that there would be enough wood between the shank and the outside of the handle (and still be comfortable to hold) to be good and sturdy. I guess it would be strong enough though, its not like I'll be using it for a pry bar. Did you use a toot to do your handle? I haven't really found one that I thought was all that informative.

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Jason McGowan
M&S Guitars
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United States of America, looks like another silent night
As we're sung to sleep by philosophies that save the trees and kill the children....
Casting Crowns

Nope, just a straight bevel. Here's mine. I like to really choke up on the blade, and shaped my handle accordingly. I just cut a bit of mahogany off the board I use for head and tail blocks, sliced it in two, went at one of the halves with my dremel+router base, and glued 'er back together. Then shape with planes and the knife blade itself, before sticking it into the slot. The hole for the pin turned out to be unnecessary, as the blade fits tight and holds by friction, and can be pulled out for sharpening. Favorite tool for heel carving, and as you can see, works well for trimming soundboard overhangs too

I made mine the same way - when you slice your handle in two to rabbit for the blade - make sure that both sides are sanded nicely so you can glue it back together without having a bad joint between the pieces - I used a drum sander

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It's this new idea from recent decades that everyone gets a participation award. - MUX

Hi! John, very nice handle you made there.
Since we are talking about the hock knife, I hope you don't mind I ask a few more questions.

I have only sharpened plane blade and don't have too much experience sharpening knife. How do you sharpen the double beveled knife? Do you just do it free hand?

One of my friend mentioned to me that he like the single beveled hock knife much more than the double beveled one.
I can't really afford to buy both kind to try out. So I am hoping to hear some comments from you guys.
Which one you prefer? Double or single beveled?

Thank you so much

JC

you sharpen it freehand - the bevel is long enough that it is stable on a sharpening stone or plate - whatever you use. You will get a hang of it -
I prefer the double bevel - if I had single bevel I would have to buy two knives - one right bevel and one left bevel - being double beveled has made this much more useful.

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It's this new idea from recent decades that everyone gets a participation award. - MUX

This reply is for this thread and for the one above that states some disappointment. I have Hock steel "all over the place" and I have been fortunate to talk with Ron about steels-he usually routinely answers his phone personally, but I am referring to deeper conversation than the typical order


As for the later post complaining about the knife-the chipped tip is obviously defective, but the edge as delivered is not. Ron's products come with a good start on honing, but they are not finish honed. The knnife is meant to be freehand honed-usually about 20-22* included angle and if you have ever just "nailed" the edge on a plane iron or the like, well, the knife should get that sharp too.


Apparently it is passe` to admit being a Boy Scout, but I take pride in it. Through Scouts and Dad and Grandpa, I learned to hone a knife and axe to what some friends called "scary sharp" long before the entertaining introduction of abrasive paper honing now called that. Each year before hunting season, I was delivered an assemblege of knives and axes for the annual refresh honing. The early BSA years and family and hundreds of various knives and axes made me a "natural." I am sometimes called upon to deliver tutoring in the refinement of woodworking edges- it takes me about 1/2 hour to get a committed student producing the "wicked sharp" [tm-mine] they have longed for.

For the usual planes and chisels, I use a routine of edge shaping on a Tormek, finishing on Shaptons and stropping on hard leather with diamond paste. Hock knives are flat ground, but a properly adjusted Tormek will flat grind a knife edge when properly setup. Yes, it is a hollowgrind, but it is such a minute part of the shape that it accepts traditional freehand finish honing. My premium game knives are all hand honed on oilstones with soapy water.

I like Ron's high carbon steels over his A2's-if you read his info sheet closely, you will find that he casually states the same preference. In the fancy alloys, my preference is D2.