Official Luthiers Forum!

Greetings all,

Seems like I remember a thread or tutorial about cutting pockets for the ends of back braces in linings with a Dremel or router. I've tried a couple of searches to find it without luck so far. Can anyone point me to it?

Many thanks,
Max

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Max Bishop
Brighton, Michigan

I don't know about any instructions here, but can tell you how I do it and way other shops I worked in does it.

I use the same sander set up for the ends of the braces as I do for back of the headstock for thickness. I also if needed use chisels and works just as well, the sanding thing for me just faster. Just make sure go back far enough and have flat consistent brace ends for the tuck.

I make the ends the same thickness as binding (usually .060 to .080) I cannot remember as I type this. I have a piece by the sander for quick access. I then use the same piece of bind for setting the dremel bit. I use a dremel and it works just fine for this process, but if one likes the overkill of a router that is fine, just not necessary.

I then tape the back to the rims and make sure it is where I want it in the final assembly. Mark the brace ends, which I do with a exacto knife with longer blade. Once that is done, I take a pencil and mark where the cuts from exacto are. Then use a straight edge to mark side to side. Now it depends on if just cutting lining or going all the way through rim also (personal thing or if using binding on guitar or not)

I then use a thin kerf blitz saw (or whatever called) and stay right on the lines of the small exacto and marked cuts. I only go the depth of the bind or brace ends. this allows for a really clean cut of pocket. Put back on and make sure it sets right. If not clean up the pocket so back can very very slightly move and be set square on the rims. check to make sure it also meets the rims with no gaps. This gives the inside of the box a tight look.

To me, having the braces tucked (on those tucked into rims) is important not only for cosmetics when look inside the box, but more important, when gluing the back and top on and having them set right on the rim and not moving around in that process.

No offense to those using a dremel or router for this, but what is really the advantage. I carve these pockets with a chisel in just a few minutes, it's easy, fun, and safe. If you go right through it's even easier if you use a saw as Stan mentioned (I can't do that because I tuck them deeper than the binding)

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Build log

I do it almost exactly like Stan. Use an X-Acto razor saw to define the edges of the pocket and then rout with the Dremel on a Stew Mac base. 1/8" downcut bit. I've done it this way for a long time and it's the best for me. Nice clean looking pockets and fast.

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

Stan,
Thanks for sharing.
That is a great process.

Dave

I have several Bosch Colt trimmers, some with bases permanently mounted to various jigs. One base is mounted to a plywood paddle, which helps steady the trimmer for tasks such as this, by spanning across the rim. I keep different bits in most of the trimmers, so when I rout the brace pockets, I put the one with a 1/8" downcut bit and put it in the paddle jig, if its not already sitting there. I find it unnecessary to saw before routing, I simply mark the brace ends and go to town.

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Rian Gitar og Mandolin

Arnt, do you finish the edges with a chisel ?


I use reverse kerfed linings and I have found it to be really helpful (especially the upper X ) to glue in a little wedge of something in the kerf before sawing, routing or chiseling. Not so necessary for back braces but still helpful where you might have a blow out because of the way the layout hits the lining. Holds everything together so you don't get those little chip outs.

L.

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Cut to size.....Beat to fit.....Paint to match.

Do a search on luthier tips du jor under "closing the box" He uses a saw and router.

Thanks to all for your input.

Max

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Max Bishop
Brighton, Michigan

Link, I'm not sure which edges you refer to, but I don't use a chisel for the brace pockets at all. I rout straight through the sides, and let only the bindings cover the brace ends. If I am careful, there won't be any blow-outs. I used to saw and chisel, as described in Cumpiano et al, and not cut through the side, but it is so much faster and just as accurate to only use the router. One argument I have seen against this method, which leaves the brace ends tightly up against the bindings, is that the braces may push the bindings out if the instrument should shrink excessively due to dehydration. I have not gotten complaints about this happening to any of my guitars, and it gets quite dry up here during winter, so it doesn't seem to be much of a problem in real life.

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Rian Gitar og Mandolin

Thank you, Link!
I've had problems with blow out when the notch is close to the kerf.
I will try that next time.