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PostPosted: Fri Aug 26, 2011 10:35 am 
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Koa
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One of the tasks in building a guitar that I truly despise is cutting fret slots in my fingerboards. So why don't I just buy serviced fretboards from LMI, etc.? Good question. I'm pretty hung up on building each of the components of my guitars by hand - so, I haven't gone there yet.

I've experimented with a process which seems to greatly accelerate the cutting of the slots. I'm wondering if there are any "gotchas" here that the more expereinced luthiers might have expereinced or anticipate.

I use the Stewmac jig and fretsaw, and perhaps the issue is the fretsaw has gotten a bit dull with use. Anyway, I find that my japanese pullsaw (with about a .018" kerf) cuts the slots like butter, and the jig keeps the saw at just about the right depth, when adjusted. Then I use the fret saw (.023") kerf for a smooth pass in the slightly narrower slot. Seems to go in without much trouble and the saw passes back and forth with a little resistance, but no chipping.

When gently pressing fretwire into the slot it feels snug, maybe a bit snugger than if I'd cut the slot with the .023" fretsaw. My only worry is that the slot may still be a bit narrower than .023" - and by touching up the slot with the .023" fretsaw, the fretboard may be "flexing" jsut a bit to accomodate the wider blade. Am I in process of inadvertently doing a "compression fret job"?

Thanks for your help.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 26, 2011 10:45 am 
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Koa
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I would lay the fingerboard on a flat surface and measure the slot with feeler gauges. Then you'lll know for sure.

Chuck

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 26, 2011 12:41 pm 
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You could always spring for the StewMac Japanese fret saw, though what you are doing should be fine.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 26, 2011 1:49 pm 
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Koa
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ChuckB wrote:
I would lay the fingerboard on a flat surface and measure the slot with feeler gauges. Then you'lll know for sure.

Chuck


Good idea, Chuck. Will do.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 26, 2011 2:07 pm 
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Todd Stock wrote:
Tablesaw, SM or one of Shane's slotting blades, and a shop-made carriage...takes all the pain away, assuming you don't run your hand through the blade.


+1 on that.

A table saw sled is a breeze to use compared to any slotting jig out there.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 26, 2011 2:11 pm 
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Koa
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Providing your table saw doesn't have any wobble in it. Mine does and it shows up as a wide slot. Rather than fix the saw I'm considering going old school or buying the pre-slotted. I don't build enough to worry about the small extra cost of pre-slotted boards.

Todd Stock wrote:
Tablesaw, SM or one of Shane's slotting blades, and a shop-made carriage...takes all the pain away, assuming you don't run your hand through the blade.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 26, 2011 2:39 pm 
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Why not send or take your StewMac fret saw blade to Rockler and have them resharpen it. They do a great job on my table saw blades. I'm sure that they can keep the kerf width the same.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 26, 2011 3:13 pm 
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banjopicks wrote:
Providing your table saw doesn't have any wobble in it. Mine does and it shows up as a wide slot. Rather than fix the saw I'm considering going old school or buying the pre-slotted. I don't build enough to worry about the small extra cost of pre-slotted boards.

Todd Stock wrote:
Tablesaw, SM or one of Shane's slotting blades, and a shop-made carriage...takes all the pain away, assuming you don't run your hand through the blade.


I had a Ryobi table saw, that only produced good cuts on a guitar width fretboard. Anything wider like a bass guitar and the slot curved on the end due to bad tracking of the skids in the tabletop.
I now have a Dewalt with accurate slides so my carriage remains straight and cuts true slots no matter the width. I put thumb stops on my carriage so my thumbs can't slide in front of the blade.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 26, 2011 4:15 pm 
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Koa
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Todd Stock wrote:
Tablesaw, SM or one of Shane's slotting blades, and a shop-made carriage...takes all the pain away, assuming you don't run your hand through the blade.


Todd,

Yeah, I hear you. The truth is, I'm afraid of tablesaws... seems like the majority of folks who post "don't do what I did" injury shots did it with a table saw. I also don't really have room for one, so I'm not tempted. I recognize that a good setup on a table saw would solve the problem though.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 26, 2011 4:58 pm 
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Corky,
I did your exact method twice with success. My slotting jig had a clamp though, so the board was sure to be flat with the second saw. It is amazing how much faster the Japanese saw is, I will certainly consider the Stew mac version. Both guitars have the appropriate ability to have relief.

I can understand your resistance to a table saw, not that I would ever live without one, but you really don't have to have one for lutherie if you don't want to. Enjoy the peace of mind and quiet.
Rob

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 26, 2011 6:45 pm 
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Corky Long wrote:
Am I in process of inadvertently doing a "compression fret job"?

Thanks for your help.


Slot and fret a test board and have look. You will of course get a little backbow but if the slots are correct it should flatten out with moderate finger pressure. If you wanted to get anal about it you could slot a test board with each saw, fret them, and then cobble up a jig with kitchen scales threaded rod and a nut to measure the difference it takes to press them flat. I would not worry too much with that though cause over compression of the fb should be pretty obvious just by pushing down with ur finger.

Cheers

Kim


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 27, 2011 12:39 am 
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With the tablesaw system, how do you get the slots in exactly the right place? Do you buy a guide, or measure it yourself?


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 27, 2011 9:09 am 
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lol @ Filippo making his jigs with figured maple.

The man goes 100%.

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