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 Post subject: Never have enough clamps
PostPosted: Sat Jun 04, 2011 12:56 pm 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Fri Sep 04, 2009 1:13 pm
Posts: 215
First name: Steve
Last Name: Ellis
City: Manteca
State: CA
Zip/Postal Code: 95337
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
My sound holes are only 44mm and I can't get my cam clamps inside to glue on the bridge, so I was thinking, hey I should make some "mini" cam clamps - ala SM. Started looking around and got sidetracked.

Last night I was clamping some veneers for some herringbone and wheat and it never fails that I get too much pressure here, not enough there, and the veneers (even with a clamping caul over the entire surface) always end up with uneven pressure. So I thought... more clamps? hmm.... idunno

So I started looking around and found this link http://www.bowclamp.com (I have no affiliation) and thought I can make one of those and it looks perfect for the type of clamping we always do; joining tops/backs, laminating necks, doing veneers for purflings, rosettes, etc.

I've got some time today, so I'm going to dink around with some pine in my garage and see if I can use make one that "may" work. The radius doesn't seem like much. Probably ~15'. For those of us who make our own radius dishes, this is a piece of cake (Thanks Chris Paulik for the links to the long compass).

I'll check back with my progress and let you know how it works out. This could end up working out for a lot of lutherie clamping purposes. What do you all think?

BWT - I was thinking - this is a Padma moment, keep it simple stupid!

Steve


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 04, 2011 1:04 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Mon May 03, 2010 2:19 pm
Posts: 262
First name: Al
Last Name: Darned
City: Toronto
Country: Canada
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
FYI you can get those from Lee Valley ... look good, but not cheap. Let us know how yours work out! [:Y:]

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 04, 2011 9:18 pm 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Tue Apr 27, 2010 9:07 pm
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City: Tucson
State: AZ
Country: USA
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Status: Amateur
Dang I'll have to try that. Time to look through my Bowmaker's Bible to see what kind of timbers would work best. bliss


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 05, 2011 4:58 am 
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Joined: Fri Jul 10, 2009 4:44 am
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First name: colin
Last Name: north
Country: Scotland.
Focus: Build
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Damnation! - been using that idea for clamping back joint reinforcing a couple of years now - seemed to work just fine.
I didn't know you had to use computers and CAD to get the curve right.
Does that mean it won't work now that I've seen this post? [headinwall]

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 05, 2011 10:11 am 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Fri Sep 04, 2009 1:13 pm
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First name: Steve
Last Name: Ellis
City: Manteca
State: CA
Zip/Postal Code: 95337
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
what radius did you use? I tried a 15' radius yesterday and I think it was too much. I'll try a 25' next time. I'm just using some nicely quartered pine from my local Big Box store.

-Steve


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 4:46 am 
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Joined: Fri Jul 10, 2009 4:44 am
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First name: colin
Last Name: north
Country: Scotland.
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No idea what radius, or even if it is a true radius, just trial and error - just sanded something that looked about right into the edge of about a 3/8" x 7/8" piece of pine on the belt sander.
I did a couple of dry runs, tuning it until it seemed to hold everything down OK then went with it.

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 8:37 am 
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Joined: Sun Jan 27, 2008 4:10 pm
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First name: Tom
Last Name: West
State: Nova Scotia
Country: Canada
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Steve: Been doing the same thing as Colin for years. Think it's been around in cabinet making forever.
Tom

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 9:20 am 
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Walnut
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Joined: Sun Jun 05, 2011 4:29 am
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First name: Craig
Last Name: Feuerzeig
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It's a modern take on an age-old idea. New for a couple of reasons... CNC does in fact come in very handy for precision purposes. It's the difference between getting some pressure in a few spots along the way... and getting even pressure along the length. Comes in handy for laying up veneers and inlay... and when used in opposing pairs. Plus the t-slot is awefully handy as both ends of an f-style clamp are captured... greatly reducing fumbling with the clamps. Remember...tick-tock, your glue is kicking.

Thanks all for your interest. Great forum I'm having a blast. Good stuff. Hopefully this is helpful. I'm of course happy to answer any questions.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 12:16 pm 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2008 3:57 pm
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Location: Powell River BC Canada
First name: Daniel
Last Name: Minard
City: Powell River
State: BC
Country: Canada
I'm with Colin on this one. Been using clamps like this for back strips for years. I made mine out of Bigleaf maple. They work great.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2011 6:45 am 
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Joined: Thu Jun 12, 2008 6:59 am
Posts: 1964
Location: Rochester Michigan
I came across this idea a while ago but had forgotten about it. I always have a rough time getting my top and back seems flat - something like this should help that out nicely.

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