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http://www.elitetools.ca/product/precision-sharpening-system

I saw this sharpening tool on a web site and was wondering if anyone has tried one.

Fred

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Fred Tellier
http://www.fetellierguitars.com
Facebook page http://www.facebook.com/pages/FE-Tellier-Guitars/163451547003866

A friend of mine had one. He doesn't anymore. If I remember, he found it to be very slow. Whatever the reason, it's gone now.

Mike

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Mike Lindstrom

I haven't seen this before, but it looks like your edge needs to be dead-on 90 deg. to the side of chisel, or you would have a lot bevel shaping to do. The diamond stones are good for prepping a bevel, but I haven't gotten good final finish with them.
I use a 1000x-4000x combo water stone with a Veritas guide and angle jig, and get a mirror finish on my chisel and plane irons. You can also do what ever micro bevel you want with the guide.

Alex

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"Indecision is the key to flexibility" .... Bumper sticker

Woodcraft is having a special on the little Eclipse guides right now.

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Waddy

Photobucket Build Album Library

Sound Clips of most of my guitars

My first guitar was also my first wood working project. In the process of tooling up, with no knowledge and an abundance of enthusiasm, I bought lots of shiny things that no longer see the light of day. This is one of those things. For me it is slower and doesn't provide the same quality edge as using the "scary sharp" method I learned from Todd's videos. It will make an edge you can shave wood with, but not worth the money or the labor in my humble opinion.

In the interest of full disclosure please note I am still very much an amateur. I could have been sharpening the wrong end of the chisel.

I had the same thought on this but wanted to see if maybe I was wrong. It is also somewhat costly for what it is. I use the normal roller sharpening guides and get good results.

Fred

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Fred Tellier
http://www.fetellierguitars.com
Facebook page http://www.facebook.com/pages/FE-Tellier-Guitars/163451547003866

I was at the Japan Woodworker last week, noticed they were clearing those out...not a better mousetrap!

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https://soundcloud.com/jeffreylsuits/he ... -runnin-13

I went with a Worksharp after seeing a demo at another builders shop.

http://www.amazon.com/Work-Sharp-WS3000-Wood-Sharpener/dp/B000PVHIMW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1305663441&sr=8-1

Keep watching, they go on sale for as little as $150. Best thing I've bought in years. Dead easy to do a quick touch-up mid carving process. Did that a lot recently carving the inside of a quilted maple mando back.

Alan D.

After years of fighting with water stones, scary sharp, wet grinders, etc., I finally decided to order the Jool Tool. I love it on principles, and if it works as good as I imagine it might, I will be very happy indeed. It should arrive in about a week, and I will report back with first impressions.

http://www.annapolisfilmfestival.com/Jooltool-Tool.html

Now that's what I said! The principle is remarkably simple, yet genius. Being able to view the actual edge being honed should be of tremendous value. In addition, the discs are designed to install or be removed from the spindle in quite literally a heartbeat. One can move through four or five grit levels in no time. Besides, 3M makes the finest abrasives available. I like the company too. Anie is very nice, and very clever. She developed the concepts, invented the machine, and built the company from scratch.

With the Worksharp, I find the finish after using the 3200 grit needs no further attention as a cutting edge. I did get the honeing disk with leather and green compound and I did use this to get a nice mirror finish on the flat side of my chisels on the first pass, but I have not used it since. The quick-click settings for angles is great for putting on that final angle on the tip, but don't do more that just a quick touch to get that angle. I don't use the "ninja" disk for regular flat chisels but is is great for doing gouges, you can see the angle you are holding at and rotate evenly. I also do touch up of the gouges using the top of the disk and the tool rest. The most important thing for me is that I can do a quick touch up in less than a minute and get back to carving straight away. When I was using stones or the Scary Sharp it was a process to stop and do a touch up. The ease of the Worksharp means that I touch up often and don't end up forcing the tool when it is just a bit dull. Never looked back...

Alan D.

With the worksharp, just turn a disk from 1/2" mdf and butter it up with honing compound to use it as a power hone - really fast and easy to get a wicked edge on small carving tools. Not so good for use plane irons, but I have no problem grinding and polishing wide/thick irons freehand on waterstones. I like the green compound Lee Valley sells.

-jd

Since I bought the Wide Blade Attachment for the WorkSharp, I rarely ever use the chisel blade guide underneath. I do everything from the top using the clamping guide. I sharpen everything to 6000 grit, including scraper blades at 90*.

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Waddy

Photobucket Build Album Library

Sound Clips of most of my guitars

Gosh, I really hope you are wrong on this one Todd. I mean getting the first 95% of edge keenness is not difficult with any method, it's the last 5% of final honing that presents the real difficulty. The JoolTool, with it's 500 to 5000 rpm motor, edge viewing capability, and vast array of 3M final honing options, should be able to bring something completely new to the table, er, edge. As for squareness of scrapers (if you mean straightness of edge) as long as the corners are softened, I am not so sure it is that critical. Even the smallest deflection in use manifests as something akin to lack of squareness. If you did mean squareness proper, i.e., the scraper's edge making a right angle to the face, again, I am not so sure it is that critical. By the time one burnishes a hook, all squareness is lost anyway.

I'll have to look into that attachment, I was going to build a box to set the worksharp in to give a big flat working surface so that I could use one of my veritas or eclipse jigs on the disk for rough grinding irons or changing bevel angles.

-jd