Official Luthiers Forum!

Hey,
This is my second guitar ( seventh instrument) I've made. I made a dreadful mistake and didn't put the the bridge plate back far enough, so the bridge pins just rest right past where the plate ends. Any recommendations? Even though this is a kinda crappy solution, I think im going to glue in an extension to the plate and drill through that. Is there something better I could do at this point maybe?

And just to show you guys the guitar, heres a couple pics
Thanks,
Nils

ohh yes. Dont worry...I didnt forget the last frets. I just ran out of wire.

I'd retop it. It's good experience.

_________________
Ken Franklin
clumsy yet persistent
https://www.kenfranklinukulele.com

For reelz?

Is the X-brace where it's supposed to be or is the entire bracing pattern off in relation to the bridge?

If everything is right but the patch, just remove the patch and put in a larger one.

If the X is off then it depends mostly on where it intersects the bridge as to whether to re-top it or come up with another solution.

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http://www.chassonguitars.com

I did this my 3rd guitar I'd built. It was a 12 fret and I'd not fully taken into account the length differences. I was too hasty and didn't draw it all out before proceeding. Lesson learned!

I removed the plate and replaced it. Quite the chore, but I was afraid of just putting an extension, and having a "hinge" of sorts right underneath the bridge.

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John Mayes
http://www.mayesluthier.com

Yes, that's a brace I would want to be in one piece.

_________________
http://www.chassonguitars.com

I think im going to go with #1. I hadnt thought of putting a laminate over the extension.
Whats wrong with my rosette though?
This is from my first guitar. This one doesnt have the glitch in it.

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v625/freeskier328/Jan%20-%20Feb%20Build/P2120258.jpg[img]

"Ken's too polite...", a problem that Todd has never had!

One thing you have to learn around here is that while some may have excellent technical skills, their arrogance knows no bounds.

Your rosette is fine, looks good on the guitar. It may not be Todd's choice, just don't let him play it.
I think the patch extension with overlay is a good solution at this point. It's your second guitar, finish it and play it, your next one can be better.

Joe

I would go with a pinless-bridge at this point. And would extend the plate with a extended plate before retopping.

Incidents like these are great opportunities to learn a new skill. Especially if you plan on doing this stuff for a long time. I'd give a re-top or bridge plate removal through the soundhole another thought. There's lots of info floating around on how to do both and I'm sure folks here would help as well.

_________________
It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

I'd be worried about what a .195 bridge plate would do to the sound. I've never done it mind you, but that seems like an awful lot of wood to have in that particular spot. I give another vote for replacing the bridge plate.

Something else you could do is use a shorter scale length. You'd have to make a new neck and fingerboard, but that sounds better to me than some of the other options.

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Regards,
Phillip Patton

http://www.pattonblades.com

The bitterness of poor quality lingers long after the sweetness of low price has faded.

https://hoosierbladesmith.wordpress.com

I would extend the plate,
then put a very thin, and small piece of lignum vitae as a patch.
1/16" x 5/8" x 2 3/4",
or so.
Re-top if it doesn't work,
but it will.

Retopping is way into the overkill range for this guitar.

I would replace the plate, but I have experience with plate R&R.

You will be OK with an extension and a laminate over that. Just laminate over the joint and pin area; it doesn't need to cover all the original plate.

Don't use lignum vitae.

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Howard Klepper
http://www.klepperguitars.com

When all else fails, clean the shop.

Why not, Howard?

Lignum V. is awfully heavy and it doesn't adhere well.

It's a tiny piece of wood,
that doesn't weigh much,
and the string balls are pulling it up anyway,
so?

It looks like you could easily remove the bridge and then heat up your plate area to remove it too, since there is no finish yet to worry about, Then cut a new plate to fit where it should and glue it in. The tricky part is of course fitting your hand into what looks to me like a small diameter sound hole. If it were me and I couldn't do this I'd widen the hole. I like them bigger anyhow. It shouldn't be any harder than repairing a brace really. My two cents.

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"Preoccupation with an effect gives it power and enhances the error"
from "Your Owner's Manual" by Burt Hotchkiss.

pulling a plate is not that difficult. There are 2 ways to do this. One is to take a wet cello sponge that is cut in the shape of the plate , lay it on the plate and let set for 24 hrs and check. Sometimes it takes 2 days to soak through the maple . The plate slips off nicely. The other method is to get a plate heat blanket and apply heat . Set it for about 250 degree and in 10 minutes it should be off. You clean off the glue and make a new one .
Many ways to do this . Pick the way you would like to go about it . I find artist pallet knives a good took for working under the plates.

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John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

I'd be worried that enough heat to remove the bridge and plate (if heating from the top which may be an incorrect assumption on my part) would separate the top seam and possibly the bracing...I'm leaning in Howard's direction even though I'm clueless about the lignum v...

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http://www.presnallguitars.com

Hard to glue. More overkill.

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Howard Klepper
http://www.klepperguitars.com

When all else fails, clean the shop.

FWIW, my 1955 Gibson has a bridgeplate extension.

I was just going to mention that. Loads of Gibson have bridge plates placed incorrectly, or from design changes mid production.