Official Luthiers Forum!

Hello, I'm new to the forum and looking for some advice. I plan to go ahead and reset the neck on my Yamaha FJ-645 by sawing the neck joint and converting it to a bolt on. I've done a fair amount of research regarding the process. Nevertheless, I'm concerned about potential surprises when sawing the neck.

My question: will I hit the truss rod as I get close to the finger board? If so, what would you recommend to get around the truss rod as I'm sawing for the cleanest separation possible?

Thank you!

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Forever a student, always learning.

To clarify: the truss rod adjustment is at the headstock, not at the body. The following photo from Frets.com is what I'm assuming (hoping) will be the case with my Yamaha.

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Forever a student, always learning.

Okay, I'll ask the question a little differently. Is the cross section pic in my previous post a more or less typical truss rod setup when the adjusting nut is located at the headstock rather than the body? What I'm worried about is the anchor end of the truss rod (as shown in the pic) extending further along the fingerboard and thus blocking a clean cut to the fingerboard.

Perhaps my question can't be answered but that would be helpful to know as well.

Thanks again.

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Forever a student, always learning.

sounds like your planning to cut the FB
Why not remove it then all will be revealed

I'm not planning to cut the fingerboard but I have thought about removing it for that reason. So how tricky is it to correctly put it back on? I've read that using pins to keep it aligned is helpful. And thank you for responding!

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Forever a student, always learning.

Randy--

PM me.

Jeff S.

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https://soundcloud.com/jeffreylsuits/he ... -runnin-13

Getting it off with minimal damage is probably more difficult
some use domestic irons/heatlamps/blankets, clean thin palette knife
Back on the pins work fine...make sure the holes are really small and will be hidden by the frets
Then the refinish is another something!

I recently did a similar job on my brother-in-laws unplayable old Asian made Madiera by Guild. The neck was bowed and the fingerboard was coming off the neck. So, I removed the old fingerboard, cut the neck off at the body with a thin bladed Exacto saw, changed the truss rod to a two way, put two threaded inserts into the neck heel, drilled the neck block for the attachment bolts and put on a new fretted fingerboard. It plays as good as a cheap Asian guitar is capable of playing. It was good experience for me and cost nothing cause I had all the new parts in my stash already.

Ah, a picture is worth a thousand words. Thank you Steve.


Given Steve's response about potential damage when removing the fingerboard, I may opt for replacing it as well or at least having one available if needed. I'm glad to hear that it went well for you, which is encouraging.

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Forever a student, always learning.

Randy, please take lots of pictures as you do this. I have an old FG-180 that needs a reset. I'm going to try the conventional way first, but if the joint won't release with steam I'll probably resort to cutting it off.

The fact that some people are able to do conventional resets tells me that the t/r does not extend past the 14th fret, otherwise you would not be able to drill the 15th to put the steam nozzle in.