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I thought I did everything right. Black Limba bends easy right? I thicknessed to 0.085", used Supersoft, and heated to about 320. I think I cracked it when I was putting it in the mold, rather than during bending... Can this be fixed? It's not meant for anyone. It's my number 6... How might I repair this crack...?
Thanks,
Steve

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Steve Sollod (pronounced sorta like "Solid")
www.swiftcreekguitars.com

That sucks.

I would try again.
If it's for you, and you can't match the back,
you could use some other wood.

Looks like another smaller crack to the right of that one.
I mean the other right.

For what slender comfort this might offer, I did not find Black Limba all that easy to bend.
Anyway, if indeed this one is for you, it's a fine place to develop some finishing skills.
The kind that hide problems, the magical kind. Or--

You could cover with a clever inlay;

You could put a sound port there;

You could overlay an even prettier veneer;

You could spray the guitar black.

It's gut-wrenching, it sucks, and we all feel your pain, but hang in there.

Steve

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From Nacogdoches...the oldest town in Texas.

http://www.stephenkinnaird.com

If it were me.. I'd scrap it and start again... that's quite the auspicious start to a build.

On the other hand check out this picture below. It's Michi Matsuda's work. While I don't think he cracked a side it would be a clever way to cover something like that up.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/matsudagui ... hotostream

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John Mayes
http://www.mayesluthier.com

I would tend to call that a inauspicious start. Get some new side wood and try it again.
L.

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Cut to size.....Beat to fit.....Paint to match.

320 might be a little hot for limba.

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Ken Franklin
clumsy yet persistent
https://www.kenfranklinukulele.com

I can't tell exactly what spot the crack is from the picture, but if it's on the upper bout you may be able to hide it by doing a florentine cutaway. The cracked area would have to be in just the right spot, but I thought I'd throw it out there just in case. You could also simply acquire a new set of sides and try again. Good luck, cracking a side is a miserable feeling.

Thanks guys for trying to ease my pain...

I think that I may have forced the side into the mold. It seemed to bend fine. Since the crack is in the upper bout on the under side, I may do a flourentine cutaway... Not sure yet. Actually, Steve, The first thing I had thought about was some kind of inlay, but I couldn't think of anything. John, that photo is actually quite attractive.

Does anyone have any guidance on putting the side into the mold without cracking it...?

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Steve Sollod (pronounced sorta like "Solid")
www.swiftcreekguitars.com

Bend it correctly/well and you shouldn't have to force it in a mold as it will just fit.




My sarcasm was missed....

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John Mayes
http://www.mayesluthier.com

Bummer...That's a pretty bad break. You should be able to find some orphan sides to come close . I'd scrap it. Just be glad it wasn't a $$$$$$ set.
I have a couple SUPER exquisite sets that I'm totally afraid to build with and bend...because there will be no buying any "close to matching sides" if I break one.
Kent

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Wood Creations by Kent A. Bailey
EXCELLENCE IN SCULPTURE, CARVING, LUTHIER, ARCHITECTURAL MILLWORK AND DESIGN

http://www.kabart.com

Filippo,
My last build was a florentine. I guess I've been lucky...

I bend the sides on a form....

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Steve Sollod (pronounced sorta like "Solid")
www.swiftcreekguitars.com

Sorry, my bad.

L.

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Cut to size.....Beat to fit.....Paint to match.

Not your fault... I should have used one of them darned crazy faces looking at me on the left.... hmm.. which one for a smart alleck comment....



or



hmm...

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John Mayes
http://www.mayesluthier.com

Why do they call it black Limba? Looks more like white Limba to me. Actually it looks like toast... I think you'll have to start again...

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"Preoccupation with an effect gives it power and enhances the error"
from "Your Owner's Manual" by Burt Hotchkiss.

Considering this guitar is for yourself there is a trick that woodworker use for drawing miters together that involves using glued on cauls on both sides of the miter to draw the joint together while the glue in the joint dries. I was wondering if you might try to use cauls on both sides of the crack from both the outside and inside to balance the pull and draw that crack together after gluing with super glue or epoxy. Once the joint is dry then grind/plane/heat the cauls off. May be worth a try.

It looks like you have more than one crack to me also.

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Billy Dean Thomas
Covina, CA

"Multi famam, conscientiam, pauci verentur."
(Many fear their reputation, few their conscience)