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I’m about to route the channel for the binding on my L-00. This will be my first time routing a binding channel.

I will be using Herringbone purfling with Tortoise binding backed by a white fill size piece of .020” ABS plastic. The end graft will be a tortoise wedge with a white ABS piece for backing.

At this point the box has been closed but I have not installed the end graft or cut the neck mortise. I was going to do the neck mortise last but am thinking that might not be the best idea.
My Planned Process is:
• Cut Channel for Herringbone
• Cut Channel for Binding
• Cut end graft slot
• Shellac channels
• Fit end graft
• Install Herringbone and binding.
• Cut Neck Mortise
Questions:
When setting the depth for the cut into the side for the binding, I have been planning on leaving the binding slightly proud of the sides and then scraping back to level. Is this a good plan or should I shoot for a perfect ledge depth from the start?

Glue:
I have a tube of Weld On Cement and some of Stew Mac’s binding tape. I was thinking that dry fitting with tape and using CA and would be the easiest approach (and I like easy). It makes sense to try this with the different materials I’ll be using, but if the Weld On is better then I’ll go with that. On the stew Mac site they talk about the binding swelling. I’ll be using Celluloid, ABS plastic, and wood. I know the weld on has the potential to make the celluloid a slimy mess. Is this a real concern? And… should I be planning for this when cutting the channel.

Thanks for any tips. I’m sure once I dive into it (or after I’m done) things will be much more clear.
John

John, I install the end graft before routing for purfling and binding. Weldon is great, does not turn celluloid to mush, but will turn ABS into mush. It might make a irregular thickness white line. I have totally sworn off ABS. After the tape is pulled let the binding sit for at least a couple of days before sanding.
A reason NOT to use Cyano is you can't go back and fix any gaps.
Oh, yea, I cut my dovetail last after the box is sanded.

Thanks Haans I was hoping you'd chime in.

What do you use in place of the ABS? If I do use the ABS i have, but go ahead and use CA, will I avoid the irregular white line that you are talking about?

Oh and what are your thoughts on the depth of the cut?

John

John, depends what you have. Maple or holly would work, celluloid of course, but I'm betting you don't have any handy and HAZMET fees are to much for a few strips. Fiber strips would also work (LMI), or maybe even heavy white paper or card stock, depending on the translucency and what you want to show topside.
As far as routing, I go around half the depth of the top for purfling, but mine runs past the kerfing many times. Binding is around 1/4" total on a large guitar, maybe 3/16" on a parlor. Side purfling would be extra depth.
Cyano would be good for the ABS, I guess...I just don't use the stuff much.

Suggest you use .020 x .250" white celluloid, if you can find it. StewMac used to sell it (sigh).

There is someone who deals in celluloid bindings now, but I forget the name.

_________________
Howard Klepper
http://www.klepperguitars.com

When all else fails, clean the shop.

Axiom at http://www.axinc.net has it, but with the Hazmat surcharge.

Pat

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formerly known around here as burbank
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http://www.patfosterguitars.com

I used Weld-On for a long time but switched to the FCA binding cement that LMI sells couple of years ago. I really like it. I put it in a syringe with an 18G needle and lay down 5-6" segments. Good to wait a couple of days after the tape is off as well but I don't think it softens the binding as much.
I always sand the binding smooth before scraping as the scraper (in my hands) can tear the binding if it hits little nubbins of glue. If I can avoid it I don't like leaving it proud.
I rout my end graft before I glue the top and back to the rimset. My jig fits more securely that way. I would go out on a limb and say NEVER open the neck mortise before the binding is installed.

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

Yea, I get mine from Bill at Axiom, but it's a half hour drive for me...

Does anyone have it without a hazmet fee?