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I'm looking for information on how to make cases just like the one the little guy to the bottom of the page is sitting in. Anyone have any suggestions?

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Under which topic would I post that?

I was just visualizing building a case, and it was a lot of work Not entirely different than building a soundbox, really.

I'd probably go with a coffin-style case to eliminate a lot of bending. Just two long side pieces, and then a wide curved piece around the tail end, and a small curved piece around the headstock (or flat there, but it wouldn't look as nice). OSB for the main plates and flat sides, and maple or whatever that I could bend for the curved pieces. Probably laminate two bent pieces for strength, since they'd need to be pretty thin for bending.

But really, I think it's more than a few hundred bucks worth of work. Especially considering that you'll probably need at least $50 for materials anyway. Build another guitar instead and you can pay for the cases for both of them

Ian,

I haven't done it but at one point I was thinking about making uke cases.

Here is a link to a site that I thought looked promising.

http://www.kevinchilcott-luthier.co.uk/ ... ase-p1.htm

He doesn't make it all the way to the end, but you can see where he is going with it.

Good luck,

John

That looks like a Jenny Tenor uke. I have that same case and love it.

I have often thought about case building. And if I did it, I would most def use that tweed fabric. It is absolutely gorgeous. I was also thinking about flex board. Does anybody think that would be too heavy?

Mike

I tried it, but got stumped on the lid. It looks like it's more like making an archtop.

Thanks for the link, John. I saw it earlier but skipped over it, thinking it was for a solid body case, which are usually built differently. I do see where he's going with that and I have the whole thing pretty much planned out in my head. The complicated bits are going to be the upholstery work so far as I can tell. I do know that it will most certainly be tweed on the outside, and red/green plaid on the inside. It will also be for a smaller instrument, so costs will most likely not be much. I was thinking birch for the sides and birch plywood for the back and lid. Any objections?

If and when I do get this project underway I think I'll make a full report with pictures and put it in the "Document your Build" category. I think that would be a good thing to have here. Mike, since you have this same case, if you don't mind, could you please take a bunch of pictures at various angles inside and out so I can get an idea of how the thing goes together? I'd appreciate that. You can PM me if you like.

Sure thing on the pics. This will sound silly, but I almost love that case as much as my Jenny.

Mike

This assumes, of course, that you must have a conformal top. I've never looked at the construction of my Taylor case, but I bet that part (if not all of it) is molded plastic.

I don't really understand it, but we spend an awful lot of time crafting the instrument with little or no interest in doing the same with the case it will reside in. There are links out there that show how to build some cases, but most look sad to me.

Mike

Edit: The biggest concern I hear is that any hand crafted case would be too heavy since modern cases use light weight materials (which use production means not available to the hobbyist).

Well the thing about cases is that it's general consensus that the best case will be the one that protects the instrument better. There are no variables like tone, action, or any of that. We just want a protective covering that will save our instrument in the event of an impact. I do like color though. This case really isn't designed to be durable. It's designed to look good and protect the instrument from rain and light impacts. I wouldn't build this thing unless I couldn't get one like it.
I would have that same reaction lol.

Ian, if I forget, just PM me about the pics.

Now that I look at your picture (compared to mine) I realize yours is for a Soprano Uke. Mine is a Tenor. But it should not matter:

Thanks for the pics Mike.

I would like to keep this alive. I am thinking of some plastic I have seen, sometimes its made into a cardboard looking material. It's whitish, not opaque... waxy looking and flexible. I really do not want that form factor, but I would like to find it in sheet form. Next, I would like to find the same material in quarter circle lengths. Actually, this would not work, sort of like cutting a tube into 1/4 lengths? Since one would need to extend the non curved part for a bonding surface. With this, one could build a bottom/top, and extend sides at 90 deg to the surface. Seems to me, if such stuff were available, then one could build a shaped plastic shell (with glue or rivets). No? This would be relatively light and strong as well. Then its just a matter of doing the lining, etc. Hinges, clasps, brass rivets, handles are all readily available. Foam, plush lining is out there too.

Anybody know of such materials and sources?

Mike

I spent some time thinking about how to go about making a case a couple of year ago.

If I was giving this a try and I wanted an arched top there are a couple of approaches I might try. First sculpt a mold out of wood, concrete, or something that will maintain a shape for the top. Then I would laminate some veneer sheets pressed in the mold. This process would be similar to veneering a skateboard deck.

http://diyskate.com/mold_01.html
There are other sites that talk over different ways to pull this off.

You could add a couple layers of fiberglass similar to how a Kevlar canoe is built.
http://www.bwca.cc/tripplanning/equipme ... ilding.htm
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/ ... 72-6940830

The key would be to first build the mold/form. I haven't done this so think it through before you give it a try. My thought is with the wood veneer core incased in the fiberglass or Kevlar layup, you will have a decent amount of protection. Cover in Tolex and you are there.

The top will be flat, and the under the top will be foam, with another strip of foam going down the length of the strings JUST pressing up against them to hold the instrument down. Looking for something way simple here. I may do some experimenting later on, but really this is supposed to be basic. This first one will be for a bouzouki BTW. No use making something I can buy, and I need a case for my 'zouk.

Mike:
The sheet material you are looking for is called Coroplast. It is often
used on greenhouses, and comes in 4'x8' sheets. It's been a while since I have bought any, but it used to sell for about $15.00 per sheet. I don't know if it would work well on tight curves, but is really
quite durable. If I were going this route, I think I would try laminating
it to some Baltic birch veneer. Just a thought.
Allen

Allen,

Thanks!! If it has thermal properties that allow heat bending, then it can work. Let me study this material for a bit. What did you use it for?

Mike

Edit: OK, that IS the material, but the wrong form factor. I want the plastic without corrugated form.

Why not just use some 1/8 " plywood? Or perhaps even masonite? I'm sure these would be easy bends. I wonder what one would use for padding?

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"Preoccupation with an effect gives it power and enhances the error"
from "Your Owner's Manual" by Burt Hotchkiss.

Google bendable plywood. This plywood bends very easily and when two layers are glued together it will retain the shape of the curve. It would easily make the curved sides of an instrument case. I've used it in a double 3/8" thick lay up for cabinet doors but it should be available in 1/8" thick sheets.

Paul

Masonite? Kind of heavy. Yes, I am looking at that flexible plywood.

Mike

Wow, I'm glad this topic has some serious interest. That bendable plywood looks really interesting, but for my situation just bending wood would be the better solution. No idea about padding. Haven't thought that far ahead yet, shouldn't be too difficult though. This is exciting. I might start making templates for it next week.

I built a mandolin case using 1/8" plywood, if I recall correctly (it's been about 30 years). The sides bent easily with steam and heat. On the seams between the top/back and sides I used blocks like tantellones much like what's used on classical guitars, but only every inch or so. The outside was varnished. It looked decent, and the customer liked it.

Pat

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formerly known around here as burbank
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http://www.patfosterguitars.com