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We'll I've done quite a bit of experimenting in glues.

I've found quite a few uses for Titebond Liquid Hide glue. Each of these can be done using other glues and I would prefer to use Fish Glue for these same purposes, but I didn't have Fish Glue on hand for these tests, or of course regular hide-glue.

Obvious uses based on forum history:
1. Gluing labels to the back
2. Gluing 80 Grit Norton sand paper to my radius dishes
3. Gap filling my rosette goofs

Possible Serious Uses:
1. Used as the glue for laminating my sides
* I've tried several experiments with different glues (Liquid Hide, LMI white, Titebond and Pro-Glue Veneer Bond Dry Resin)
*Pro-Glue Veneer Bond Dry Resin
- Pro:
Super long open time (up to 15 minutes after applied)
Water clean-up (warm water)
Very rigid bond
Crystal (although brown) when dry
no creep
- Cons:
once dry - forget trying to repair
Bleed through if not allowed to semi-cure before bonding
* Titebond Liquid Hide Glue
- Pro:
No mixing
Long Open time
Easy cleanup
Very rigid bond
Crystal (although brown) when dry
- Cons
Not sure of long term bond
Not sure of how heat will affect the laminate
No long term observations of creep
Titebond/LMI White
- No need to go into - everyone knows the benefits
2. Using to glue purfling and bindings to the guitar

Gluing purflings and bindings one can use Titebond White for longer open time and it dries clear.

Since no-one seems to like the stuff, I thought I'd try a few experiments to see if it can indeed be used where a long open time is useful. I may actually try it on a build and see if I like it compared other more traditional glues. I read somewhere (I can't remember where) that a very prominent violin maker unapologetically uses it for everything on his violins.

Just another thread to waste the Holiday time off

Flame away.
Steve

I'll probably never buy another bottle but, before I was told not to, I removed the top of my fiddle, fixed a crack with it and used it to reinstall the top. That was 15 years ago and it's holding fine. From that experience, I don't think it's as bad as some people claim.

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Hutch

Get the heck off the couch and go build a guitar!!!!

Another "I'll probably never buy another bottle, but..."

You can use it to glue photocopied/printed designs to pieces of pearl/abalone to guide your cutting for inlays. Then soak the inlay pieces in warm water to release the paper. But you'll be swearing up and down if you use out-of-date liquid hide glue and the paper comes unstuck when you've sawn halfway around your piece (DAMHIKT).

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Jonathan Kendall, Siloam Springs AR

Yeah, I've proved it to myself that it worked for that one thing but I feel better following in the footsteps of real luthiers. When you guys start using it regularly, I'll follow. I barely have time to make an instrument let alone testing glues.

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Hutch

Get the heck off the couch and go build a guitar!!!!

I use it in fret slots when fretting.

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

I bought a bottle, used it to glue plates together, after 4 days the plates just wouldn't stay together under any little tension. I took the bottle back to the lumber store and bought regular titebond. I've never bought a bottle of the liquid hide glue since. I use fish glue for pretty much everything now.

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My Facebook Guitar Page

"There's really no wrong way, as long as the results are what's desired." Charles Fox

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the problem I have with this stuff is the shelf life. If you get a fresh bottle you may be fine but it doesn't last very long. Hot Hide Glue is the same way, mix what you need for a few days and toss it. Refrigeration helps to keep it fresh , but mixing a fresh batch doesn't take long either .
Same is true for most glues, Don't keep glues for a year and think it will be as good as the day you got it , this does have a shelf life