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The Benedetto book doesn't specify headstock face veneer thickness, what are you guys using?
Jason

Jason, you're really best to draw it out. Depending on where the head slope begins (relative to the fingerboard end...ie bound or unbound etc), you can run into strings buzzing against the T'rod cavity cover. I even ran into trouble with tuner posts once because I did one too thick.

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Dave
Milton, ON

I can dig that Chris but this is the first time for me to do a bound neck. I'm having trouble figuring out how the binding comes together at the nut. If my headstock veneer is too thin then the binding rabbet will be routed underneath the fingerboard. If it's too thick then you have to remove more material off the back of the headstock. I'm sure I'm just over thinking it a bit, but do you see what I mean?
Jason

Dave:
I have had both of those on the same guitar. To cover the truss-rod I used thick head-veneer which made the head too thick for the tuner-posts. I had to sand the back of the head to expose enough tuner-post and left the back of the head in the base mahogany.

You gotta do what you gotta do.

Bob

Maybe this will help. search.php?keywords=anthony+fingerboard+stop&terms=all&author=&sc=1&sf=all&sk=t&sd=d&sr=posts&st=0&ch=300&t=0&submit=Search

Don't forget the effect of the fingerboard stop, as detailed in Benedetto's book.

I draw it out using the actual dimensions, angles etc. I like to have the tuners in my hand or at least a dimensional drawing of them to make sure I leave the headstock the correct thickness.

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

Thanks everybody. I'm starting to really appreciate the wisdom of full-scale drawings and mock-ups.
Jason

I like mine 1/8" to start to allow for inlay. They might end up at around 3/32". I resaw the headstock on my bandsaw to get the 9/16" headstock thickness after the veneer is on.