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PostPosted: Thu Dec 09, 2010 6:02 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Sun Dec 27, 2009 2:59 pm
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Location: Northeast Indiana
First name: Phillip
Last Name: Patton
City: Yoder
State: IN
Zip/Postal Code: 46798
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
So far I've not used any finish on mine. Usually just buff them and maybe put a coat of fingerboard oil on it.

Thanks,
Phillip

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http://www.pattonblades.com

The bitterness of poor quality lingers long after the sweetness of low price has faded.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 09, 2010 6:03 pm 
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Hi Phillip,

I just sand thru the grits to 220, then buff on the wheel with fine and extra-fine...I don't like for my bridges to look plastic...

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 09, 2010 6:20 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Sand to 400 grit and apply canning wax, then rub in with a rag.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 09, 2010 6:24 pm 
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Koa
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Location: Jacksonville Florida
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Sand to 320 then apply 1 coat of waterlox sealer / finish.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 09, 2010 7:24 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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I sand and buff , no need to put a finish on the bridge

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 09, 2010 7:31 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Sun Dec 27, 2009 2:59 pm
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Location: Northeast Indiana
First name: Phillip
Last Name: Patton
City: Yoder
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Zip/Postal Code: 46798
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Thanks guys, that's what I thought. Do you do the same thing for classical bridges?


Filippo Morelli wrote:
I dip mine in lard, then cryogenically freeze it.

Filippo


Do you use dry ice or liquid nitrogen?

:D

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Phillip Patton

http://www.pattonblades.com

The bitterness of poor quality lingers long after the sweetness of low price has faded.

https://hoosierbladesmith.wordpress.com


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 09, 2010 8:06 pm 
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L. Presnall wrote:
Hi Phillip,

I just sand thru the grits to 220, then buff on the wheel with fine and extra-fine...I don't like for my bridges to look plastic...


Typo...I sand to "320" then buff as stated... :?

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 09, 2010 8:22 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Location: Northeast Indiana
First name: Phillip
Last Name: Patton
City: Yoder
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Zip/Postal Code: 46798
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Filippo Morelli wrote:
Got to go with the liquid nitrogen. We seem to get better annealing on the lard.

Filippo


Liquid helium is even colder. You could probably convert even more retained austenite that way.

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Phillip Patton

http://www.pattonblades.com

The bitterness of poor quality lingers long after the sweetness of low price has faded.

https://hoosierbladesmith.wordpress.com


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 09, 2010 9:11 pm 
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Walnut
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Joined: Sat Dec 04, 2010 1:01 pm
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Location: Mt Juliet, TN
sand to 600 and apply johnson's paste wax

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 09, 2010 9:36 pm 
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First name: Tim
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Quote:
I dip mine in lard, then cryogenically freeze it

For that truly FAT sound

Me? I just buff and let the natural oils in the ebony do its thing


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 09, 2010 9:43 pm 
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Koa
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Location: Michigan,U.S.A.
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Depends on what wood i'm useing. Most dark woods are just sanded and polished.The light woods are poly finished.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 10, 2010 9:48 am 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Tue Nov 27, 2007 2:36 am
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Location: Magnolia, Texas
First name: Chuck
Last Name: Gilbert
Focus: Build
Status: Semi-pro
Sand to 320 - same as the fretboard. I like for them to look the same in terms of sheen.

Chuck

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 12, 2010 4:56 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Tue May 13, 2008 10:44 am
Posts: 6261
Location: Virginia
Phillip P. wrote:
Thanks guys, that's what I thought. Do you do the same thing for classical bridges?


Filippo Morelli wrote:
I dip mine in lard, then cryogenically freeze it.

Filippo


Do you use dry ice or liquid nitrogen?

:D

I finish my classical bridges and use FB oil on the steal strings.


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