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I really like using this stuff except for drop filling.I`ve used it several times,And every time it takes several hours and multiple applications to get a satisfactory job.Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
James

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James W Bolan
Nashville Tennessee

I don't know how to speed up the process. I try to do all the drop fills I can find with CA before I seal. Otherwise it just seems to take multiple applications and patience. If I can keep the surface level then I use a micro-pipette to put a good-sized drop or bead on the depression.

Don't use a heat gun to try to make it go faster. DAMHIKT

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

I haven't nailed how to do this either, but here are a couple comments that might help.

More specifically, if there is an area where I have gone thru a bit it's hard to patch it back up. I have one of my guitars back in the shop for a touch up job - the guy let the lid of the case drop onto the soundboard & screwed up the finish a bit (argh!). I think what happens is that if you get thru and see wood, you really need to sand a slight depression in the wood in this location, seal it (I use shellac), and then do your drop fill. Otherwise, I think the water in the finish causes the grain to swell, making the problem worse. I know this stuff is supposed to be witness line free, but I do still get some slight variation in the finish. One thing I've gleaned from the Target forum is that denatured alcohol will reactivate the finish & will help different applications blend in better.

Best,
Trev

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http://www.PeakeGuitars.com

One thing that I've done is to use the stew mac sealer (which they recommend to build coats anyway) as it's got more solids apparently. It still sinks back a lot but it seems to build faster than the straight WBL.

Spray 3 or 4 coats, wait an hour.
Drop fill with sealer.

Rinse repeat until you're at around 15 coats. By then you should be pretty filled. Last 5 coats are straight EM6000 with no drop fill.

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http://www.birkonium.com CNC Products for Luthiers
http://banduramaker.blogspot.com

James,

I usually do my drop fills after coat 9, which provides a fair number of coats to fill as many pores as possible and still leaves me a half dozen to shoot on top after pore filling. I get a very fine modeling brush, dip it in EM6000, then dab it on the open pore. For deeper pores, you may need to fill, let dry 45 minutes, dab a bit more on the already filled pores, wait 45 minutes, then do it one last time. After another 45 mins, you can then level with a razor blade or your sanding block and shoot the last half dozen coats.

I typically shoot three or four coats a night when spraying. Pore filling simply takes the place of an evening's spraying. I don't find it that big of deal. Initial pore filling is the part I hate most!

Ken

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http://www.casperguitar.com

Total Brain Fart when I was writing my last note -Last time I used the stew mac water based clear grain filler, not the sealer. This is apparently a Target product (not sure which one) with way more solids than the lacquer. I used in to fill a bunch of holes in my rosette on my last build and it blended perfectly. I leveled the drop fills after a day of drying.

See, and everyone said that stuff is worthless!

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http://www.birkonium.com CNC Products for Luthiers
http://banduramaker.blogspot.com

Andy ,that sounds like it`s worth trying.I`ve got just a couple of tiny areas along the binding that need to be filled and It will be pretty good.Thanks for everyone`s help.I think this is a great finish for a small shop.Also,I`m shooting it over Mun ebony and I swear I can`t see any blue.
James

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James W Bolan
Nashville Tennessee

Ken I forgot to mention I used CA to pore fill for the first time and it does a real good job.Much easier and faster than Z- Poxy.I tried several different ways to appy it,and found that a nitrile glove is super easy and fast.I just rubbed the CA around in a circular motion.I used medium Titebond Ca from Woodcraft.
James

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James W Bolan
Nashville Tennessee

Take some Em 6000, put it in a baby food jar (or similar) and let it stay out in the open until it thickens. Then use for drop fill.

Good idea - I'll bet that the grain filler I used is pretty much thickened lacquer.

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http://www.birkonium.com CNC Products for Luthiers
http://banduramaker.blogspot.com

Andy, thats what I have been doing. It takes a day or two depending how much is in the jar and the ambient conditions. Just keep an eye on it. Once it gets thick, you can put the top back on and use it later. But its really easy to drop fill with it once it gets thick.

I bet another trick would work better... place it in a vacuum chamber (Joe Woodworker style) and boil of some liquid at low pressure and room temperature. I may try that.

Mike

I need to find me a baby jar and do that, I've got two that will be ready to finish pretty soon and anything that can speed up the process is a good thing.

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"