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PostPosted: Mon Nov 29, 2010 9:57 pm 
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Koa
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I LOVE Kevin Ryan's A4 Kerfed lining - for install it is a breeze and it looks wonderful.

But... when I route the pockets for my braces I'm having all kinds of issue with it chipping out.

Anybody else?

Suggestions?

I've tried scoring with an exacto blade, but it didn't help.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 29, 2010 10:16 pm 
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Are you climb cutting? That might help.

I just tried it for the first time and really like it. I'm a die-hard when it comes to doing stuff myself and this is the first pre-made lining I've ever bought. It sure does go in like a breeze but I haven't routed binding channels yet.

edit: Misread your post. I was thinking is was the binding channel, not the brace pocket. How are you cutting them? I score the edges with an xacto and rout with a 1/8" bit. A smaller bit would help.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 29, 2010 10:32 pm 
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I've scored the locations and cut with a 3/32 bit - still getting chip-out in places.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 29, 2010 10:38 pm 
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Location: Winfield, KS, USA
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I love this stuff, especially the cypress.

Does a little chip out on a liner even matter?

I guess I never had this problem because we scored with an exacto knife and then cleaned out the brace pocket with a little chisel. Viola! Clean as a whistle. I think the router might be overkill because the material clears so easily with hand tools.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 29, 2010 10:41 pm 
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If the side of a brace enters the linings right on a kerf, you can get chipping. Happened to me with reverse kerfed linings, too. So, when a brace is going hit one of the kerfs, I take a sliver of kerf width wood (a shaved down toothpick will do), dip it into some glue and fill the aforementioned kerf. That has solved my chipping problem. Oh, and I also pre-score the linings where the brace edges hit them.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 29, 2010 10:48 pm 
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Actually, Hans, a little chip on the lining might not matter to some. Each one of us has to answer that question for ourselves. For myself, and a lot of others, a chipped lining is not acceptable. For others it is.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 29, 2010 11:39 pm 
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Maybe if you routed from the inside out? Clear the inside so there is no wood to catch to tearout?


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 30, 2010 2:00 am 
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Filippo Morelli wrote:
This is a great job for hand tools. Thin saw, chisel and a razor blade. Take your pick. A router seems like a lot of work.

Filippo


I've got nothing against hand tools but this is a great job for a router if all your brace ends are the same height. The router cuts the same depth quickly and with no measuring. And it's a lot easier if you don't want to cut through the sides.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 30, 2010 6:44 am 
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I use a trimmer with a 1/8" bit: you have to climb cut to avoid tear out.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 30, 2010 7:28 am 
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Paul,

I think Kevin recommends putting a strip of tape along the lining to prevent the chip-out. I had the same chip-out problem as you the first time I used it .... then I read his instructions duh :D

Dan

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 30, 2010 8:07 am 
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Koa
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DanR wrote:
Paul,

I think Kevin recommends putting a strip of tape along the lining to prevent the chip-out. I had the same chip-out problem as you the first time I used it .... then I read his instructions duh :D

Dan



duh is right - I'll give that a try.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 30, 2010 9:43 am 
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Try sawing on the lines with a razor saw to the depth of the bracing, then routing the section to be removed out.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 01, 2010 12:40 am 
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Tape will do the trick...or hand tools.

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