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Hi, I haven't posted here much yet, but I've already learnt A LOT, just by reading the different threads of the forum.
Now I have a question however.
I am currently finishing up on my 4th acoustic, which is an OM. I just got thinking it might be nice to have a soundport in the side. Would it be possible to still do this, even when the guitar is almost finished (box is closed, neck and fingerboard are installed etc., basically I'm almost ready for finish)? I figure cutting out the actual soundport would be doable with my plunge router. It is however the reinforcement of the hole that I'm worried about. I was currently thinking about layering veneers onto each other (in a crosswise grain pattern?), but I haven't come up with a method to efficiently clamp these veneer pads to the side, inside the box. If I can't find a good way to do this, it will have to wait till the next build.
Has anybody here already done this? Any pointers on how large to make the surface of a soundport are also very welcome.
Thanks in advance for any replies.

Maarten

I do mine with a router and jig after the box is closed but for a one-off, a drill, some files and sandpaper make quick work of it.

I know some folks who use no reinforcement but I typically put a side brace close by on both ends of the port. That's not too hard with the box closed.

As for size, that seems to be a matter of opinion but I tend to keep mine fairly small, approx 1.5 sq. in.

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I think it really depends on the design you want to cut and the thickness and type of wood on the sides.. If you are going less than 2" small round or oval, you're wood is less effected structurally. If you go large and/or designs with sharp corners that go Cross grain, you will need to preback the inside area to compensate for your grain weakness. Larger rounds or ovals can cause your sides near the port to cup in time and maybe split without support or backing.
I just did a maple leaf sound port and had to back it with a side thickness piece of mahogany (opposite grain direction) so that the weak cross grain finger areas of the design had grain structure. I chose to use a different darker wood to create a contrast with the maple side and cut out the design at a angle to allow a more interesting and exposed contrasting edge. It also matched my neck and binding color.
Sometimes a contrating wood backing can add interest to a HOLE.


Kent

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You can also reinforce the inside with several pieces of veneer. That way you don't have to bend a piece to match the curvature of the side. You could use a slower setting CA glue for the veneers and press them into place.

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Randy Muth
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Nice soundport, but a really interesting carved heel !

Is that carved "in relief", or is it carved in whatever the opposite of "in relief" is ?

I can't really tell from the pic...

I've made several now but I back them with several layers of contrasting wood that are each about 0.040" thick. I do the installation before I put the top and back on. Maybe you could use veneer with magnets for clamps?

Here's a thread that might be helpful: http://www.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=25134&hilit=soundport

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

What Randy said, then use a holesaw if you want round. Really. I've done several that way, works fine, just go slow. Maybe something about the curve of the side keeps tearout at bay.

Personally, I prefer a real binding for the edge.

Pat

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formerly known around here as burbank
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http://www.patfosterguitars.com

Thanks for the replies, guys. much appreciated. I just might give it a go then.
thanks a lot!