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PostPosted: Wed Oct 27, 2010 1:40 pm 
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Walnut
Walnut

Joined: Sat Aug 21, 2010 4:42 pm
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First name: Yvonne
Last Name: Bonifas
City: Bath
Zip/Postal Code: BA1 4BT
Country: UK
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
I have some walnut binding which I would like to dye black and use instead of ebony for binding the edge of a soundhole. Can I use ordinary wood dye and when I glue it to the soundboard with Titebond will it behave itself and not bleed into the end grain of the spruce?

Grateful to hear your experienced views


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 27, 2010 1:57 pm 
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Contributing Member
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Joined: Fri Sep 09, 2005 7:51 am
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Location: Canada
Hmm, never done that, adn really wouldnt bother trying - for black binding around a soundhole, I woud use fibre ....

If you do try it,. I would seal the end grain of the top first, and then use CA to attach. Use some scrap to test it out first ...

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 28, 2010 12:12 pm 
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Walnut
Walnut

Joined: Sat Aug 21, 2010 4:42 pm
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First name: Yvonne
Last Name: Bonifas
City: Bath
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Country: UK
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Thanks guys.

I think I may just go for ebony, it was just lots of folks say it is hard to bend and breaks easily whilst Ive used the walnut to bend into a tight circle before ok. Plus I have it to hand and am just being economical!


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 28, 2010 12:17 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Fri Nov 14, 2008 11:14 am
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First name: Evan
Last Name: McCartney-Melstad
I've darkened walnut with iron buff and didn't experience any staining. Agree with shellac on the top before gluing. And Chris is right--if it's not nearly the perfect depth at time of inlay it'll be inconsistent color after leveling, which depending on the grain of the walnut, can even be visually interesting.

Try on scrap first for sure.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 28, 2010 12:36 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Sat Apr 07, 2007 5:07 am
Posts: 161
Location: Ulster Park, New York
First name: Bill
Last Name: Sterling
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Zip/Postal Code: 12487
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:mrgreen: Have you though about ebonizing it? I was talking to Eric Marzak this weekend at the Woodstock Show about ebonizing Walnut. He said he used tea water to boost the tanic acid in the wood and then dissolved a steel wool pad in vinagar and applied it to the walnut. I was thinking of trying it on Locust for a fingerboard and bridge but I don't know how deep the ebonizing goes if the strings erode the fingerboard. I need to experiment-but for binding it should work and I don't think there is any way it would bleed.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 28, 2010 12:52 pm 
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Koa
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Location: UK
It won't penetrate very deep. I had a piece soaking in ferrous acetate for over 6 weeks. Gives a nice Black but you'll be lucky to get it to go below 0.3 mm.
Pressure dyeing is a different matter.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 29, 2010 1:59 am 
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Koa
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You can cut two thinner pieces of ebony and bend them separately. Then CA them to the sound hole. I get my ebony from off cuts of the fingerboard.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 29, 2010 7:47 am 
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Cocobolo
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I use ebony, but if I were doing this I would fume it. It will turn completely black and will penetrate at least 1/8" on all sides, so it would go all the way through binding.

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