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This tooling plate allows the CNC machine to be used as a joiner to create a splendid edge for gluing. When in use. the holes in the plate contain movable pins which allow for four specific widths to be created with tight tolerances.

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I read Emerson on the can. A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds...true...but a consistent reading of Emerson has its uses nevertheless.

StuMusic

Works for me.

I like the new Forbet's binding jig I build! Works great and nest together when not in use...
Thx, Tony

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Tony Flippo

Tim....check out this article over at 13thfret.com

http://www.13thfret.com/saddlejig.shtml

Mine is very similar to what is posted above, I used 1/4" music wire from a hobby shop for the rod and some 1/2" square Oak for the ends, the groove for the 12th fret was cut oversize and cast with auto body filler over an actual fret on a fretboard. I bent music wire for the bridge end just like the Stewmac one. This is a great tool and makes bridge setting a breeze.

Fred

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Fred Tellier
http://www.fetellierguitars.com
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I use my Centerline finder for setting the bridge. I use my fret slotting template to layout the saddle position by marking the 12th fret position on the CLF and flip it over and mark the zero fret and add compensation. I also mark the 1st and 6th strings and mark the saddle angle. Mark the center line of the bridge and aline your saddle slot with your marks and set the bridge stop on the CLF and your ready to go. Bridge squared and centered and set. I scribe it on the bottom side of the CLF but a ultra fine tip sharpe will work and is removable if you make a mistake in measuring or want to change something.

This jig is to flatten the upper bout so that the fretboard extension lays flat when the neck is set at the proper angle. The thickness of the flat board is the same as the thickness of my fretboard plus the height of the crown of the frets. In this case that is .30". The ebony bar that is taped to the bridge position is the same height as my bridge. There is PSA sandpaper stuck to the flat board. I just sand the upper bout until there are no gaps.

You can't always use this jig. If the angle of the upper bout is too far off, you will make the top too thin. In those cases I just sand the upper bout level and put a wedge into the fret board extension. When the angle is close, however, this jig works well.

Once the upper bout is sanded, you can simply take the angle between it and the side of the guitar and use that to set the angle of the neck. I use a flush mounted neck using threaded inserts on my neck. I can use an angle gauge to get the angle of the top and then set my table saw directly from that and then slice the end of my neck. Once that is done, the neck is now on the same line as the upper bout and the neck is pretty much "set".

ps. The square piece of ebony is from another attempt a making this jig that didn't work and I never bothered to remove it.

Here's another jig for locating the bridge. The link below is to the instructions. I've seen them listed on ebay.

http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/bridgesetter.html

Here's a little different version of a compound radius jig that I built a while back,, I know it's a little bit on the overkill side,, but is very accurate!

Thanks for looking, Chuck

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Well that sure eleminates any socket or expensive bearings. It can be easily made to adjust to any radius with the addition of hinges between the router guide and it's arm and the same for the FB arms.

You're right Chris, just plain 3/4" bearings that the allthread rides on. I think it can be done without bearings, but I wanted it to run smooth. The allthread can be adjusted up or down if you want to change radii, via a slot. The only thing that is not adjustable is the angle of the cone, but you would only need to change it if you use extremely different fret board tapers. I calculated the angle of the cone for the taper that I normally use and built for that,, I think around 15 degrees.

Chuck

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I was thinking about if it was made from wood since most of use probably don't have welders that a couple of bolts on each end for the pivots and some indexing holes in the pivot arms for preset radi and the hinges to change the angle. Then on the outer side of the frame the router arms could be wider with two slots for bolts to adjust the router table to match the angle or for a single radius set up. Maybe a knob to lock the swivel too. You could probably build one for about the price of a sheet of 3/4" MDF 2 set of hindges and some bolts and hardware and a can of paint of your color choice, $45 . Either way it's a nice take on that style of jig. It doesn't take that tractor to move it around does it?

My take on Steve Crisp's neck reset jig, to be used with a laminate trimmer with an offset base.

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https://soundcloud.com/jeffreylsuits/he ... -runnin-13

This is best looking home made Jig thus Far !!!

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Chris, sounds like it would work,, the only concern I would have is keeping it rigid due to the hinges. This is something I considered when building mine. One could easily build a similar jig with mdf or ply. I just used old fence posts and a couple of angle irons I had, oh yea, had to buy a can of paint! I used steel since it stays in the barn.

And yea, somedays I feel like I need that tractor to move even me around!

Chuck

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Chris, that's a great spray mask for doing those toxic finishes!!

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Tickle your guitar daily, and it'll tickle you back.

Here's a jig that Jean Larrivee designed back in the '70s ... his was milled from steel, but this one is a "quick-and-nasty" version out of wood that has held its own over my last couple of hundred builds. My buddy Sergei de Jonge calls it the "thinner-downer" and it is used to accurately thin down purfling strips to fit rosette slots, purfling ledges and backstrip routes. From the side view, it is basically just an L-shaped base, with an added moveable block that has an old plane blade embeded in it. You sharpen the plane blade at more of a scraper angle, as it is a scraping action you are wanting. You just slowly adjust the gap between L-base and the moveable block/blade smaller and smaller as you pull your purfling through it ... scraping little shavings off and leaving an accurately thicknessed final product. I've glued a slightly crowned piece of brass opposite my blade so that surface doesn't get worn down. Not exactly rocket science, I know, but easy to make and surprisingly useful!

Nice job on the Sizer, looks good. For those not familliar with these it's actually an old tool concept used by Spanish Rosette Makers. If you have a beveled plane blade or chisel and it is at an 90 to the bed and pull the stip through from the beveled end it will compress the wood some if there isn't a turned burr and pulling it through from the flat end edge which is at a 90 angle it will shave to thickness. Here's my version made from a $25 Stanley plane. It also allows for angling the blade to cut a tapered profile if needed.
viewtopic.php?f=10117&t=23475

Here's my carving duplicator jig.

-John

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John Thiessen
http://www.iszacguitars.com